The mandatory week stay in a SHA+ Plus (State Health Administration) accommodation passed quickly enough. I played the tourist on Sunday, taking a longish walk through the touristy stretch of Old Phuket Town after my lunch and heading over to the weekend night market. I had a thorough look at the night market, but ultimately decided not to eat anything there–both because the prices seemed a little high and there were too many farang around. I left before it got crowded at stopped at an empty restaurant for the contractual Pad Thai. I got it to go, which was a huge mistake, because the heavens opened up on me halfway back to the hotel right when I was on a stretch of the road with no shelter. I got completely drenched before I found an awning to hide under. If I only I had chosen to just eat in the restaurant, I would have missed the rain.
I suppose I got over the jet lag quickly as I continued to wake up around 2am in the morning, something I was doing in the week before my departure. After a restless weekend, I officially began my new job still working remotely from the desk in my hotel room. However, other than a few meetings the first two days, I didn’t have a lot of work on my docket.
I wandered out into town every noon and evening to hit up different cheap restaurants. The two most common types of food are (soup) noodles and Cantonese-style barbecue (pork or chicken on rice). Those meals typically cost about 50-70 Baht. I did splurge once at a restaurant where I ordered two freshly cooked dishes–morning glory and some kind of clam since it turned out to be a seafood restaurant and it was listed on the front page of recommendations. That turned out to be a bit pricier (240 Baht).
On January 5th, I had an appointment for my second PCR test swab. Due to high demand, I couldn’t make a booking at any location near Phuket Town, and settled for Kata — one of the beach towns. Phuket has a rudimentary public transportation system of blue buses (more like pickup trucks or giant tuktuks) that run between the central market in Phuket Town and the main beach areas. The bus was just sitting at the market, so I climbed on and waited with the one other passenger until the driver was ready to start his round. It was super easy to find the swab center and they processed me quickly. I do find it funny that my best chance of catching Covid is going to the swab center. I took a quick look at the beach before heading back in to “the office.”
Unfortunately, the trip back was not as easy as I wasn’t 100% sure on where to wait for the bus, and I ended up following Google’s instructions to go up to the highway (a 20 minute walk). I waited along there for a while until I decided my best bet was to go back to the beach road, where I stumbled across an actual marked bus stop. These tropical countries have a very loose system where you can ask to be dropped off anywhere and can get picked up anywhere, but if you don’t know the route, you might end up waiting a very long time.
The excursion to Kata was enlightening because I got reminded of what the touristy beach parts of Phuket are like, with everyone (mostly taxi drivers and masseuses) trying to sell you their services. By contrast, life in Phuket Town was quiet and nobody bothered me (other than the occasional person who said hello just to say hello).
One of my doctoral classmates is not only from Phuket, but also happened to be spending the New Years visiting family (he normally lives in Bangkok). I had been in touch, and after a few days of messaging back and forth and changing plans last minute, we managed to meet up a fancy massage parlor on the far side of Phuket Town. I hadn’t seen him in four years but he looked exactly the same. He wanted me to show photos from my last visit, which I had on my phone, but it turns out they were all photos of food. We didn’t have much time to catch up as I went for a foot massage and he and his mom got some other kind of massage in a different room. They treated.
On Friday (Jan 7), I checked out of my hotel and booked a taxi through Grab to head to the villa where I will be staying for some time. It’s owned and operated by some friends of some friends and these friends are just kind of renting one (or two) villa(s) on a semi-permanent basis just to have the space available. Also, for storage I think, since there are some suitcases in one of the bedrooms and a lot of random stuff scattered throughout. The villa has three bedrooms with attached bathrooms, a living room (with sofa and TV), dining room, kitchen, and a brand new washing machine. The U-shaped building surrounds a private pool with deck chairs and a garden and a privacy wall separates the villa from the other units in the community. There is a communal pool suitable for swimming laps and a basic fitness room next to the office (not even a two minute walk from my front door). It’s basically paradise. I really got the VIP treatment, with a basket of snacks and a stocked fridge to welcome me (including a bottle of champagne which I’m saving for a special occasion). On the other hand, it’s a bit isolated (up in the hills away from possible tsunamis), so I don’t have the luxury of being able to pop out and find restaurants or look at shops. I can walk to a Family Mart, but other than that I need wheels. The rural parts of Thailand (or which this counts) don’t have much space on the sides of the roads to accommodate foot traffic, and culturally, I’m considered a little crazy for being willing to walk for the 5 minutes.
After a long weekend of ordering takeout through Grab and settling in for real this time, it was finally time to meet up in person with my friend/boss, who is living in a condo that is even fancier than the villa and has a gorgeous view of Kata bay. That morning (Tuesday Jan 11), I got around to arranging a motorbike rental and prepaid a month (4500 THB) on top of the deposit (2000 THB). The condo is on the other side of the “mountain” from the villa and it was a harrowing journey following my friend to see his place. On the way back–a mere three hours after completely the rental transaction–I found myself unable to steer right and slowly ran the bike off the road. That implies I gently came to a stop on the shoulder when in reality I was so fixated on trying to get the bike to go to the right, it didn’t occur to me to hit the brakes. The bike is now off somewhere getting repaired (both brake controls were broken) and I am sporting some gnarly looking “Thai tattoos” on my arms and legs. I’m really not sure which aspect of the situation bothers me the most. The pending cost of the repairs I am on the hook for, the pain of my skin lesions, the embarrassment of crashing so soon after getting the bike, or the fact that I can’t go swimming or work out for at least a week.
To commemorate the renewal of my website hosting fees, it is only fitting to get back to blogging. Of course, it helps that I am back to my nomadic life. I don’t intend to regularly document my life, since this phase of nomadic living will be rather sedentary as I spend my days sitting at my computer rather than lounging on beaches or getting into adventures. Nevertheless, coming to Thailand in the midst of an Omicron outbreak was a bit of an adventure worth documenting for my loyal readership of bots and spiders. (Seriously, my site visitor stats would be depressing if I wasn’t treating this like a personal journal).
I’ve sold out, so to speak, and after close to two years without a regular paycheck and a short stint as a adjunct lecturer, I’m beginning a full time position as a web developer. Hopefully, I’ll still be able to carve out time for my passion project–the Chinese learning platform–that still isn’t developed enough to actively promote. Being a linguist and being in Thailand, I can’t imagine I don’t also end up dedicating a chunk of my daily life to gaining some semblance of literacy in the language (at least enough to read a menu). So, I really won’t even have time to provide semi regular spending reports, which is what I ended up doing for most of the Covid lockdown in Argentina, when the highlight of my day was cooking a meal and I dedicated a lot of mental energy to tracking fluctuations in grocery prices and the blue dollar.
Preparing to Travel
Thailand introduced some reforms in November to encourage more tourism to the country by making it easier for fully vaccinated travelers from select “low-risk” countries to enter under loose quarantine conditions. Once I decided I was coming to Phuket and I arranged a multiple entry tourist visa (USD 200), I applied for the Test&Go program under the Thailand Pass. I was required to stay one night in a SHA+ Plus certified hotel, have a negative RT-PCR test issued within 72 hours of my departure, pass a PCR test on arrival at the airport (2200 THB ~ 65 USD), and self-administer a rapid antigen test on day 5/6. After which, other than a contact tracing app, I would be free to travel Thailand. Compared with the closed borders and draconian quarantine conditions of other Asian countries, it seems like a very easy and reasonable policy. Compared with the open borders and shitshow of pandemic control pioneered by the USA, it seemed like a safe harbor to continue to “wait out the pandemic.” Seriously, did the US really wait until December 2021 to start requiring people to have a Covid test before entering the country? How hard would it be to require a rapid test in the airport before every domestic flight? Or a test on arrival for international flights? It wouldn’t solve the pandemic, but a few simple policy changes would go a long way towards controlling the endless swirling toilet bowl of pathogens that is 48 distinct state policies.
Everything was on track until I arrived at my testing center the day of my outbound flight (December 26) after family Christmas at my sister’s in the Maryland suburbs of DC. The Covid Clinic testing site was not there. I’m 50/50 as to whether it was a programming mistake (allowing me to make a Sunday appointment for a business that only operates Mon-Sat) or a quasi-scammy website. I wasted a bunch of time waiting in line at the wrong Covid testing site which happened to be at a park on the other end of the shopping mall where I was looking for the white van. Plan B–i.e., getting tested at the airport–also fell through because true to their word on their website, they were not accepting walk-ins due to the unprecedented surge in demand for testing. I missed my flight.
I had the misfortune to run into a confluence of factors. Because I had previously been able to get tested easily, by the time I was made aware of the importance of an appointment, almost all the appointments were taken. The reason no appointments were available was partly the timing. Leaving on the 26th when lots of business are closed for the holidays really makes it hard to have a test in the 72 hour window. This was exacerbated by the sudden outbreak of Omicron in Washington D.C. and its surrounding communities and all the stupid responsible people trying to get tested before spending time with their families over the holidays. So, if only I had originally booked a later flight (constrained by my sister’s original plan to also go on a tropical holiday on the 26th), or I had looked for appointments a week earlier, or Omicron waited two weeks to hit D.C. everything would have worked out as planned.
Luckily, I was able to reschedule my flight for three days later (paying only the price difference), book an appointment at a local testing clinic (with a permanent storefront), and stay at my sisters in the meantime. Due to Omicron, Thailand had cancelled Test&Go and all Sandbox programs other than Phuket as of December 21, meaning mandatory quarantine for entry. I would have been “grandfathered” in under my already issued Thailand Pass, but by changing my dates, I invalidated my Thailand Pass and could only reapply under the Phuket Sandbox program. The main difference in programs was that I need a 7-day booking at a SHA+ Plus hotel rather than the one day stay.
It was a stressful few days waiting for my new pass to be issued (considering they say it takes 3-7 business days to process), but it came in time. I also got good news from the Phuket Swab Appointment System that I could change my appointment to the new date (rather than eating the $65 cost). I did have to eat the 20-something dollar airport adjacent hotel I had booked. Even though they offered to honor the booking on a new date, I needed to submit something for the Thailand Pass and would prefer to be a bit more central if I was going to spend a week in a hotel.
In Transit
It amuses me how much of immigration control has been outsourced to airlines, where they have to go through a checklist to decide if you should be allowed on the flight (because they are responsible if the destination decides to deny you entry). I flew Qatar Airways and had an uneventful 4 hour layover in “The World’s Best Airport.” The gate for my flight was not determined until about an hour before boarding, so I camped out in one of the more remote corners of the airport. Drinking fountains were closed and every other seat was blocked off. So already, I was seeing more “covid controls” than Dulles. On the flights, the attendants didn’t just wear masks, but also had hospital gowns, surgical gloves, and safety goggles (if they weren’t already wearing glasses), and we all had “protective kits” (mask/glove/sanitizer) on our seats along with the standard flight amenities kit.
When the plane touched down in the early gray dawn of Phuket, they announced that we would disembark in groups to avoid crowding in the airport. The whole arrival process–a glorious mix of chaos and order–was designed as a series of checkpoints to usher people through the bureaucratic process.
Stepping from the airplane to the bridge, I felt something deeper than a sigh of relief. The ring of a bell and a frog plopping into mud.
Though I was seated fairly forward in the cabin, I made a beeline to the restroom to change from my travel pajamas, brush my teeth, repack my bag. So, unfortunately, I lost my advantageous position among the thirty rows of seats that the passengers were being filed into. We sat in the folding chairs while staff came through to check out documents. Apparently, I needed a printed copy of my negative PCR test, so I was sent over to a desk where we had to get it printed up. By the time, I had it printed, the entire airplane had been processed and was in line. I guess all the other people who need printing had friends to save them a spot in line, but I went all the way to the back.
With out documents in order, we went one-by-one to the health counter to get stamped so that we could then file through the normal passport control. I got called over to the diplomatic lane and made sure to tell the official that I had a visa so that I wouldn’t get stamped with the standard 30 day visa free entry. I passed another pair of currency exchange counters with the same awful advertised rates and because I needed 500 baht for my airport transfer, I exchanged $20 (@31.19 for 623 baht, a 6% difference from market price) and found my luggage waiting for me on a stationary baggage carousel.
I walked right through customs, which didn’t even want me to throw my bags on the x-ray machine. Where the international arrivals let out, stanchions created a single fork in the path: quarantine to the left and Sandbox to the right. I followed the path to the next checkpoint, which was payment for the PCR test in the airport. They checked my digital receipt and had me stand on line while passengers who hadn’t paid yet could do so at a table with a couple of laptops and employees. I was called through a set of glass doors to the test processing station, where there were at least 20 desks. At this station, they checked my passport, test receipt, and hotel booking confirmation to print the label with my name and stick it to a test tube. My PCR test had the wrong hotel name written on it (from original booking), but I was able to rectify that easily. With my test tube and medical ziploc bag, I went to another set of glass doors to finally exit the airport. There were a dozen swabbing booths with counters on two or three sides of the small square booths. The medical attendant was in full PPE and essentially sealed inside the booth, manipulating the swab and test tube through a pair of rubber hand-socks (like you’d see in a film where they manipulating radioactive materials on the other side of lead lined glass). They slapped a yellow sticker on my arm and I wandered to the exit.
At the exit, there were the long list of signs with people’s name and hotels on the metal railings and dozens of drivers on the far side. In a well organized fashion, before I could exit, they asked me which hotel and made an announcement. I was then directed to the right section of metal railing where someone shuffled through the papers to find the printed sign my name. I confirmed and they told me to wait in a little waiting area. A few minutes later I was called over, and followed one guy who handed me off to my driver and I got into my taxi/limo feeling like a big shot.
Just outside the airport we passed the hotel I had originally booked and I waved at it as we drove another 20 minutes into Phuket Town. It’s crazy the first hotel wanted me to pay 300 Baht for the airport transfer (1.5 km) when I only had to pay 500 Baht for a 25 km journey. I was able to relax in the back seat of the car on the ride and observe everything we passed. I haven’t been anywhere in Southeast Asia since 2017, but the trees, the narrow concrete buildings, the motorbikes quickly revitalized the old memories.
Quarantine Lite
My hotel, the Topaz Residence, might be closer described as a hotel-style apartment building. Towering above its surrounding residential neighborhood of houses and smaller apartment buildings, it is geared towards daily/monthly rentals. The rooms lack cooking facilities, but it does have a mid-sized refrigerator, lots of closet space, a desk and a balcony. At check-in, I was asked to email my Thailand Pass and PCR test receipt to the hotel. I don’t understand the point of making the Thailand Pass a QR code, if no one ever scans the QR code. Anyways, I downloaded the contact tracing app I was directed to and handed over my phone so they could set it up for me. The contact tracing app-Morchana-displays another QR code helpfully color coded according to my risk level. It uses location services to track me and bluetooth (which I can toggle on/off) to more accurately determine who I have been in close proximity to.
I was confined to my hotel room pending the results of the PCR test in the airport or about 8 hours, which gave me plenty of time to haphazardly unpack, shower, and rest.
In the evening, once I had gotten the all clear, I wandered 15 minutes towards the center of Phuket Town. Without needing to turn on mobile data, I could use google maps to navigate around. Unfortunately, I had forgotten the essential rule about keeping your eyes open and walked into a pole giving myself a welt on the forehead but no permanent damage. My priority was to get some pocket money, since the remaining 120 Baht would not last long and I wasn’t keen on fasting until January 3 or whenever businesses would be open again. I stopped at several ATMs on the way and found one that worked with my UnionPay chip card so I could pull out some money from my Chinese bank account, which tends to be less extravagant in fees than American banks (12 RMB international fee + 19.69 RMB other bank fee ~ $3.41). Including those fees and the ATM surcharge, I got an effective rate of 4.999, which is better than the 4.77 available at the airport, but I probably should have taken out the maximum amount, i.e. 30,000 baht instead of just 10,000 baht. At least, that gives me cash to spend until I find an exchange shop with a good rate (I want at least 33 Baht:USD or 5.2 Baht:RMB).
All things considered, the town was fairly quiet. Compared to last year, however, there was a lot going on. Only the occasional tourist was roaming the streets maskless, but everyone else seemed to be complying with the mask norms. There were plenty of restaurants and shops open and quite a crowd in one area, taking their selfies in front of a landmark building. I wasn’t particularly hungry, but when I passed a fruit market I stopped to buy some very green but very nice looking bananas (30 baht). Two blocks later on the way back to the hotel, I passed a big noodle place that smelled delicious and decided to get some food there.
I lot of Thai restaurants–at least the ones I prefer to eat in–don’t always have four walls. So the lines between eating inside and eating outside are a bit blurry. This place was a bit like an airport hanger with the corrugated iron roof elevated a good twenty feet, no front wall and only partially closed back wall. Being nearly 8pm, it wasn’t crowded and I could safely distance myself. Despite the plethora of options for different types noodles and soup flavors, I went for a chashao and Chinese sausage on rice meal (50 Baht) because I think that is what I was smelling that piqued my appetite. I accompanied it with an ice tea with lime juice (25 baht).
After my delicious dinner, I stopped in a small shop to buy some water and snacks. The hotel provided two small (0.6L) water bottles, but I figured it might not be enough. Being New Years Eve, I figured I should get some beer as well as some sort of rice cracker snack. That totaled 140 Baht, and reminded me that I always spent more on after dinner crap than on actual dinner in Thailand. The Chang beer (something like 55 Baht per 0.6L bottle) was not great and I wonder if after being spoiled in Japan, Europe, Argentina and the United State, if I will ever be able to enjoy the “cheap” beer in Asia anymore. The beer definitely looked tiny after a year and a half of buying 1L beers in Argentina. In any case, I need to take a break from the drinking and want to live as cheaply as possible.
The next morning I went to the front desk to get some hot water and the “breakfast” (oh crap, this hotel does not provide breakfast, but they have free crackers with their instant coffee and tea). They took my temperature and asked me to send the receipt for my second PCR test appointment. So, that is the final part of the Sandbox. I have to stay at the hotel for a week so that they can monitor my temperature daily and make sure I follow through on the day 5 covid test. I used a bottle that looked like a Nalgene to carry the hot water back up to the room to make real coffee and discovered that they weren’t kidding when they said (on the bottom of the bottle) not for hot water. The thing shrank three sizes. It’s so weird that people in Asia always drink boiling hot water out of paper cups or cheap plastic cups no problem, but the American plastic crumbles instantly. I probably needed another bag to carry more stuff–a mug, the spices I forgot to pack, snorkling gear. Oh well.
It was a long wait until the day to leave finally came. I realized I have a pattern of overindulging when I realize I am on my way out of a country and not sure when I will be able to eat any of the things I like to eat there.
Days 428-458:
Rent
12000
3 pints
500
Hot dog
150
Total:
12650 ARS (USD 90.55)
Fri, Apr 2
Though I had ended the beer fast by eating the food, that didn’t exactly mean I was done drinking beer. I’m going to miss the panchos in Argentina, not like I ever really ate them, and it bothered me that they were so common in Mendoza while choripans were hard to come by, but who could resist a restaurant called Los Panchos de Villa.
Ribs
1320
Carrefour
1076
Produce
290
Firewood
170
Total:
2856 ARS (USD 20.44)
Sat, Apr 3
I did my shopping a day early for an Easter barbecue, I decided to go all in on ribs–lamb, cow, and pork. Apart from the pork ribs, I went to the Carrefour for coffee, dulce de leche, medialunas, bread, and one of those Easter cakes (rosca de reyes). I was really committing to my Easter weekend indulgences to celebrate the end of Lent. Unfortunately, I didn’t have another diet lined up afterwards, so this is going to get embarrassing as I keep listing all the unhealthy stuff I buy.
Vea
312 ARS
Total:
USD 2.23
Mon, Apr 5
No one joined me for my Easter BBQ, and I basically filled up on salad and bread before the meat was cooked. I did, nobly, manage to eat all the pork and beef ribs, but that gorgeous rack of lamb ribs in a Xinjiang-spice rub was completely left over. So, I decided to make a shepherds pie. I kept the bones (in the freezer) to make soup stock later in the week. I used a whole carton of cream to make some really rich mashed potatoes for the bottom of the pie.
Don Humbolto Vegetables
470
Snacks from Vea
570
Total:
1040 ARS (USD 7.44)
Thu, Apr 8
Don Humbolto has good prices when you buy in bulk. They’ll have prepacked 2kg bags 100 pesos for vegetables, 150 pesos for fruits. I believe I bought corn, acelga (chard), garlic, scallion, and ginger to make hot pot/Chinese soups. At the Vea, I splurged on some cookies (on sale), peanuts, and bananas.
Ferruccio Soppelsa Gelato
500
Booze (Atomo)
870
Mandarins, Onions, Peppers
120
Total:
1490 ARS (USD 10.67)
Sat, Apr 10
Fancy helado is expensive, 500 pesos only buys a half kilo. I picked up my last bottle of whisky and two bottles of wine at the Atomo.
Vea — Beer and cookies
880 ARS
Total:
(USD 6.30)
Sun, Apr 11
I didn’t need to go to the store for anything. I just wanted to buy more cookies on the last day of the sale, all crackers/cookies were on sale. There was also a good price on Imperial beers, so I picked up four liters. The subtotal was 1200 pesos, as I said, a good deal. The Cookies & Cream ice cream gave me a hankering for Oreos, which were not available, but I got some packs of assorted cookies. Eating the entire package in a sitting was not a good idea. Doing it again on Monday, a terrible idea.
These last few “days” look bad, but I have a fridge full of veggies that I am slowly eating my way through.
Fruit (6 kilos)
450 ARS
Total:
USD 3.22
I’m not sure what day I bought the fruit (apples, pears, and bananas), but it was somewhere during the week, maybe Thursday. On another note, I had been planning to use Ramadan as an excuse for a third dry month in 2021. However, given that I will probably not be drinking in Florida, it would be foolish to waste my last opportunity to enjoy the price-quality ratio of beer and wine in Argentina. So, I split the difference when I was suddenly reminded of the start of Ramadan on Monday. I decided to enjoy coffee, water, tea and fruit during the day and just have one dinner after sunset and no prohibition on alcohol at night.
2 Pizzas & 1 Dozen Empanadas
1050 ARS
Total:
USD 7.52
Fri, Apr 16
Somehow I only got 2 meals out of this enormous takeout order.
Helado Lomoro
500
“Garbage bags”
100
Total:
600 ARS (USD 4.29)
Sun, Apr 18
Back to a cheaper gelato place to get a full kilo this time. I did not wait until sundown to eat it, but did split it into three distinct servings to be eaten throughout the afternoon and evening. I got caught right outside my door on the way back and was guilted into buying a couple of kitchen garbage bags by a peddler. They were really out in force in the neighborhood this day. Usually, you only see the walking vendors if you are in the restaurant and bar zones.
Mate
590
Carrefour
1350
Total:
1940 ARS (USD 13.89)
Mon, Apr 19
I hadn’t drinking any mate for over a year, but now that I’m leaving Argentina, I suddenly have the urge to finally get around to buying my own mate cup so that I can pick up the habit. I also needed to get my fix of steaks, so I bought a package of bife de chorizo (and some wine of course) at the Carrefour along with more coffee and the hierba mate. “A mate” refers to the drinking vessel and stainless steel straw.
Wine
340
Veg
80
Deli
370
Total:
790 ARS (USD 5.65)
Wed, Apr 21
I went by the old Chinese grocery store, which still sells insanely cheap wine (3 bottles for 340 pesos!) Of course, I can definitely taste the difference these days. I had a craving for tabla/picada so I grabbed a pack of salami, ham and cheese with some bread at the butcher shop (which is also a deli). By this point, I had basically given up on the Ramadan-inspired interval fasting. Although I really enjoyed the focus it gave me during the day, the growing desires for snacks in the afternoon were no longer sated by a piece of fruit, and I chowed down on the picada as soon as I got home, a good hour before the allotetd hour.
Vea
700 ARS
Total:
USD 5.01
Thu, Apr 22
After several days of steaks and cold cuts, I have a burst of cooking inspiration. First up is the remains of the giant bags of apples and pears I bought. I now have the habit of turning them into pies, but I still don’t want to learn to make pie crust, so I make do with the ones that are designed for savory pies. Second up, I bought a pumpkin at the Carrefour many days prior and with a bit of ginger left in the fridge decide to make a curry. It turns into a Thai-style curry with cream and coconut flakes. It was delicious, but I wasn’t expecting it to provide three gut-busting meals, especially when I run out of rice with the second meal.
Vea
1289
Chicken Wings
240
Total:
1529 ARS (USD 10.94)
Sat, Apr 24
Beer is still on sale, so I pick up four bottles of Andes Origin. The final bit of ginger and a sale on chicken wings inspires me to try to make Korean Fried Chicken. The results were not so good, but I am confident it will be amazing next time I try. I also pick up black beans and tortillas because I decide I want to have huevos rancheros for breakfast my last few days in Mendoza.
Eggs and Cabbage
150
Milanesas
255
Wine (@ Carrefour)
530
Total:
935 ARS (USD 6.69)
Sun, Apr 25
Another Argentinian meal I will miss is the milanesa. The butcher advertised a sale on veal and pork milanesa cuts, but by the time I rolled in on Sunday, I could only buy pork. The plan was to mix and match “a caballo” (topped with a fried egg) and napolitano (tomatoe sauce, ham and cheese). I’m finishing off pumpkin by attempting to make pumpkin fries (also a failure). The cabbage is to make sauerkraut. One of the wines from the Carrefour is a relatively good one (Trapiche reserva) that I will save for my final asado.
Mailho Gelato
320 ARS
Total:
USD 2.29
Mon, Apr 26
They increased the price of the 1/4 kilo by 20 pesos since my last visit. 🙁
Beer and cookies from Vea
1060 ARS
Total:
USD 7.59
Tue, Apr 27
Okay, I guess I decided I would miss the giant one liter bottles of nice beer more than the Malbec, so I took in my four empties for one more round and bought cookies from the grocery store bakery (as opposed to the packaged shelves).
Leather wallet
750
Soccer kit
950
Ice cream and coffee
370
Alfajores
450
Carrefour
3398
More Alfajores
480
Jackhouse Hamburger and Pint
920
Total:
7318 ARS (USD 52.88)
Wed, Apr 28
I couldn’t put off the gift shopping much longer with only two full days left in Mendoza, but of course, I make sure to buy myself some presents too, like the wallet. I had to go to Western Union to get more money, and then spend it all within 24 hours.
PCR Test
6000
Souvenir shop
1930
Salad
80
Butcher
2660
Drinks and dessert
445
Cash back for asado
-3500
Total:
7615 ARS (USD 55.18)
Thu, Apr 29
I finally get some people to join me for an asado on my last day. Of course, I have to do all the work, shopping, and cooking. That may be a good thing since it forces me to learn the Argentinian way of making asado by not being able to rely on help. I may have made a small mistake when adding up the costs for the asado (also including about 300 pesos of pork ribs from Carrefour the day before), but maybe I should count my labor when we are splitting the bill.
Uber to Airport
408 (credit card) ~ 4.50 USD (?)
Airport Transfer Bus
780
Cafe con Leche y Alfajor (Havanna)
290
Half bottle of wine & 2 empanadas
708
Candy
30
Total:
1808 ARS + Uber USD 17.60
Fri, Apr 30
It was a long day of traveling. The flight from Mendoza to Buenos Aires took less time than the bus ride between the two airports in Buenos Aires. It was nice that it took the scenic route in order to pick up more passengers at Puerto Madero so I could get another look at the Pink House and the obelisk (from a distance hiding behind the radio building/tower with Evita’s smiling face).
I couldn’t enter Ezeiza airport until about 4 hours before my flight, but fortunately there is a green space with shade and food trucks outside the exit for international arrivals. I was able to sit there until dusk when the mosquitos started eating me alive. It would be somewhat ironic to get malaria right now. It took a line time to queue to get into the airport (each airline has its own lane), then queue to check in. The visa overstay thing ended with a whimper. The ticketing agent was shocked that my visa expired, and I tried to explain that it was reportedly alright. He needed confirmation from the airport Migraciones office, which was achieved by sending someone with my passport while I waited two minutes. When I got to passport control to leave the country, the officer didn’t even comment on it, just stamped me like normal and wished me a good trip home.
Somehow I managed to perfectly spend down the remaining cash, helped out by dropping a 2 peso coin in a tip jar and keeping 2 25 centavo coins as possible souvenirs. Of course, I still have fistful of Chilean pesos and 30 bucks worth of Uruguayan pesos.
So time really has lost all meaning in pandemic. I’ve been roughly counting the weeks and days for the past year of lock down, but as I am about to leave I actually did a check based on my entry and exit dates. It has been 555 days in South America, though I was only traveling for under 150 of them. So these means the daily average in the past 10 posts has been seriously under counting the denominator.
I am not counting my flights into/or out of the country in the total, but I think the lost luggage compensation basically paid for both of them. Pro-tip #1: have the airline lose your luggage. Suffer for a week, then enjoy a free vacation! Pro-tip #2: experience a once in a century pandemic that shuts everything down, find a cheap rental, and cook for yourself every meal.
It was a fairly boring month, as my consumption was mostly restricted by my goal to go 40 days without alcohol for fast and otherwise eating an uberhealthy diet until the last week or so. It was also a very low productivity month. In the second week, I spent a day or two filing my taxes and made the momentous decision to set an end date to my South American adventures. It was necessary after spending a year in lockdown in Argentina and no indications as to when I would be able to freely travel again. I only needed a day or two of research to book the tickets out of Argentina and back to the US at a time when hopefully half the population will already be vaccinated. This knowledge flipped a switch in my mind making it hard to stay focused on the present. Meanwhile, I’m about to submit a paper for a summer conference and the old patterns of academic procrastination haven’t been cured by a two year post-doctoral research trip.
Days 397-427:
Rent
12,000
Eggs and produce
290
Total:
12,290 ARS (USD 87.94)
Mon, Mar 1
When I moved into the house, the “small print” said that the rental price would be adjusted every 6 months. Sure enough, my landlord upped the price. 20% is a lot, but since Argentina and Mendoza especially is acting like the pandemic is over, there has been a fairly steady stream of tourists spending a couple nights in the house. I have the best bedroom, so another reason I decided to set an exit date was to ensure that I wouldn’t have a surprise eviction.
Vegetables and Fruit
299
Total
USD 2.14
Fri, Mar 5
Popcorn & Lentils @ Atomo
110
Vea
590
Total:
700 ARS (USD 5.01)
Sat, Mar 6
At the end of the third week of dieting, I was starting to crave an occasional cheat day. I’m mixed as to whether popcorn counts as healthy or not. I certainly use plenty of oil and butter to pop it, but most of that seems to stay on the sides of the pot. The Liquidation shelf of the Vea is my Achilles Heel and 83 pesos of that bill went towards three individual aljafores and a candy bar which were all marked down half off. Bananas, butter, and dried beans made up half the rest of the bill, so…
Produce
550
Total:
USD 3.94
Tue, Mar 9
Vegetables
210
Carrefour
1225
Total:
1435 ARS (USD 10.27)
Fri, Mar 12
For the next weekend of cheat eating, I decide to make chicken stock with on sale chicken thighs (@169/kilo), then use some of the meat for a taco salad, which I load up with cheese, olives, and corn chips. For the actual junk food, Carrefour has the same candy bar I really liked at the Vea, but it is 90% off instead of 50% off, I try some new kind of sweet biscuit (not quite cookies), and round it out with some prunes (which I will eat in one sitting).
Grido Helado 1/4 kilo
150
Total:
USD 1.07
Sun, Mar 14
The Carrefour snacks only served to awaken the beast of my sugar cravings. I was saved by the fact that Grido upped the price of their 1/2 kilo by 20 pesos while keeping the 1/4 kilo price unchanged. It’s still technically a better unit cost to go for the larger container, but the sticker shock was enough to convince me to just go for a half.
Vea
485.75
Bananas
130
Apples & Cherry Tomatos
250
Vegan Helado
120
Total:
985.75 ARS (USD 7.05)
Mon, Mar 15
It was a lot of running around for one day. With an uptick of banana prices at the Vea, I decided to grab those at a fruit shop which uses a bait and switch model (they advertise the price of the clearance bananas), and picked up a 2kg bag of apples and 1kg bag of cherry tomatoes from another fruit shop that is cheapest when you grab the prebagged/preweighed fruit they have on sale.
Eggs and salad veg
220
Total:
USD 1.57
Tue, Mar 16
Soda & Baguette
190
Pan de Campo
110
Carne (Vacio)
770
Total:
1070 ARS (USD 7.66)
Wed, Mar 17
I decided to do a barbecue on St Patrick’s Day. The office guys were going to join me, but they backed out at the last minute because they were slammed with work. It was a little rainy, but I managed to build a fire and slow roast the cut of beef (and chorizo and morcilla). The problem with barbecues is that I get hungry during the slow process of prepping the fire and slow cooking the meat, so I after a big bowl of salad and snacking on nearly a half loaf of bread, I’m not hungry by the time the meat is ready.
Lentils and popcorn @ Atomo
180
Carrefour
742
Produce
400
Total:
1322 ARS (USD 9.46)
Sat, Mar 20
Vea
1730
Lomoro 1/2 kilo
280
Total:
2010 ARS (USD 14.38)
Sun, Mar 21
Surprisingly, Carrefour had the best prices on bananas in the city that day. I almost never buy produce there. Even though I don’t have any plans to use it, I pick up a bag of rice. Similarly, I buy a blend of olive oil and sunflower to substitute for both my cooking oil and my salad oil as those were getting low. If only I could have satisfied my weekend sweet tooth with the 90% discounted peanut brittle.
The truth is, it takes a long time to go through 2 kg of apples, so I had been starting to cut them up, toss with cinnamon, sugar, and oats and throw in the microwave for a perfunctory apple crisp. Two uncontrollable desires governed my shopping on the weekend. One, I wanted apple pie and two, I wanted to make my own granola. So, I made a individual baked apple dumplings inspired by the Foodwishes recipe. At the Vea, I went nuts picking up a 1kg of rolled oats, shredded coconut, white sugar, brown sugar, butter, and flour. Stocking up on all these baking supplies with 5 weeks left in Argentina was bad enough, but there also happened to be an irresistible sale on chocolate bars (6 for 679 pesos), which only is available once in a blue moon. Finally, how could I make mini apple pies without some vanilla (and dulce de leche) ice cream to accompany them.
Contact lenses
1300
Almonds and chickpeas
280
Carrefour (again!)
950
Total:
2530 ARS (USD 18.10)
Mon, Mar 22
I don’t usually go to supermarkets three days in a row, but I realized I was out of laundry detergent. I also needed a new notebook and some sort of filling to finish off the six leftover empanada wrappers after making the apple pies. I settled on cheese since I could get all of those things together at the big Carrefour. It came out expensive because I saw a 10 pack of disposable medical-style triple-layered with metal insert face masks (499) at the checkout. With the almonds on hand, I made my granola on Tuesday. My attempt to make oven-baked banana chips did not work out well, but the granola was very delicious and very fattening.
Beer, Butter & Milk @ Vea
755
Onion, garlic & red pepper
70
German-style brotchen
180
Osobuco & herbal drink
345
Total:
1350 ARS (USD 9.66)
Tue, Mar 23
I have clearly transitioned back to a food-oriented way of life, but it is hard to follow what I am doing since I often buy things in advance, or plan meals based on spontaneous purchases because something looks good at the supermarket. For example, Vea usually has the worst prices on cheese but I saw a good looking chunk of parmigiano at decent price, so I picked it up on Sunday. This suggested I make pasta, so I was thinking about the family recipe for beef-tomato sauce and using some of the beef for empanadas. However, when I decided on queso cremoso for those, I had to come up with another plan for using the parmigiano and settled not only on making a fettuccini alfredo, but attempting to make fresh noodles (Tuesday’s lunch). Still wanting to work some meat into my diet, I was inspired to make a big pot of goulash because I had also recently purchased a new package of paprika.
Meanwhile, as I was about to reach my 40th day without alcohol on Sunday, I was stocking up on whatever beer was on sale–which happened to be Budweiser and Stella Artois (Noir).
Salad veg
70
Total:
USD 0.50
Fri, Mar 26
The advantage of front loading all the shopping for my burst of kitchen inspiration is that I only needed to get a few more vegetables to make a couple salads and last me through the weekend. Furthermore, with the reintroduction of alcohol on Monday, I had decided to try something invented by the Paulaner monks hundreds of years ago–a beer fast. Some people do the entire period of Lent with only beer for nourishment. I wanted to try it for four or five days. Thus I need beer on hand and no food in the house.
Four happy hour beers
750
More beer
170
Total:
920 ARS (USD 6.58)
Mon, Mar 29
The first day of the beer fast was…interesting. I had calculate that on average, one could drink 3 liters of beer and still be running a starvation level calorie deficit, but 3 liters is quite a lot to consume, so that was roughly my target. It was pleasant to slowly nurse a liter over a 3 hour period in the afternoon, but going out for happy hour drinks was a bit of a mistake because I was left with quite the hangover the next day and no chance to self-medicate through greasy, carb-laden foods.
Patagonia and boullion
400
Total:
USD 2.86
Tue, Mar 30
On the last day before the change in weekly offers, I figured out that Atomo had relatively better price for Patagonia, which is basically the premium Argentinian craft brand. Beer seems to be the most flexible priced thing in Argentina with prices going up every time I blink, such that it is cheap to get a pint for under 200 when I used to be able to find 90 peso pints.
Antares
400
Total:
USD 2.86
Wed, Mar 31
I ventured out once again to try out a new (to me) bar for happy hour. Ordering barley wine was a mistake (or blessing in disguise) and I left shortly after 8pm when I would have otherwise tried to squeeze in a 3rd pint of either the cream stout or the porter.
Vea
698 ARS
Total:
USD 4.99
Thu, Apr 1
Despite not drinking so much, I was still woken up in the middle of the night and unable to fall back asleep. Though that often happens if I drink alcohol, I couldn’t rule out the possibility of hunger. I was feeling a bit better when the sun came up, but ultimately to prospect of going 2 more days without food was too daunting. So, I swung by the Vea, picked up a “Korean squash,” a sack of potatoes, tomato sauce, a whole grain baguette, and a couple bottles of wine (for later). Then I proceeded to make a congee with rice and half the squash in order to nourish myself and take it easy on my digestive system. The funny thing is that introducing solid food back into my diet made me feel lightheaded than I was before, so it was a day of rest for me. Thus, ends the experiment to try a beer fast, which lasted 3.5 days or 84 hours. I’m still taking it easy because I am looking forward to a barbecue on Easter Sunday.
The cost for this month came out to be exactly the same as last month, or $196 despite the extra $14 in rent and $9 for new contact lenses. I guess even the splurging out I did the last week or so was more reasonable than what I did over my birthday weekend. I fully expect my next month to be expensive, as I buy souvenirs and live bigger as I come closer to the end.
It was a “bipolar” month. The first two weeks were spent in a stupor of eating rich food, enjoying alcohol, and manually processing linguistic data. The second two weeks were the start of a new diet with the onset of Lent and long days of coding.
Days 469-496:
Snacks at Vea
196
Rent
10,000
Total:
10,196 ARS (USD 76.97)
Tue, Feb 2
To start off, the supermarket still had Christmas sweets on the liquidation shelves, and I really enjoyed the slightly hard nougats and a pound of peanuts.
I went a little crazy with the shopping. I was still on my morning muesli kick despite the expense of running through granola and nut mixes so quickly. Beginning to ramp up for the holiday week, I stocked up on whisky and wine. I screwed up a bit with the purchases. Despite priding myself on having a keen memory for which shop has the best price for a particular class of items, I overpaid 20 or 30 pesos on the whisky & milk I picked up at the Atomo, when I should have just bought everything at the Carrefour.
Coffee & Nut/Dried Fruit Mix
940
Whisky & Milk
528
Salad & Fruit
150
Wine (5 Liter Jug)
380
Lomoro Gelato (1/2 kilo)
280
Total:
2278 ARS (USD 17.20)
Thu, Feb 4
Produce & fresh noodles @ Vea
290 ARS
Total:
USD 2.19
Sat, Feb 6
Chorizo
235
Helado (1/4 kilo @ Gridos)
150
Total:
385 ARS (USD 2.91)
Sun, Feb 7
I wanted to make a big pot of “Italian sausage” spaghetti sauce, but the price of chorizo at the Vea was way too high, so I was able to swing by the butcher shop in the morning for just right amount. In the afternoon, I only bought a 1/4 kilo of gelato because that was literally all I could afford, having spent almost every peso in my pocket.
Carrefour
2000
Veggies and Eggs
280
Total:
2280 ARS (USD 16.31)
Mon, Feb 8
After getting some money through Western Union at a slightly better rate (139.75), I was able to do some shopping at the Carrefour. Not content to eat leftover spaghetti all week, I picked up ingredients to make pizza, steak fajitas, and chocolate cake. As there were bags of Starbucks coffee on the liquidation shelf for a 20% discount, I grabbed a bag despite having a bought a pound of beans the previous week. I also bought myself a decent-sized, good quality plastic cup. When I moved in to the house, I laid claim to the largest drinking vessel available (by always keeping it with me). However, the ancient plastic was starting to crack and eventually left pools of water on my desk.
Vea
840
Zipper Repair
480
Total:
1320 ARS (USD 9.45)
Tue, Feb 9
I wasn’t going to eat fajitas or pizza without some beer to accompany it and plenty of junk food–chocolate covered peanuts, medialunas, and pepas (the little cookies with a bit a jam). I can’t believe it has been over two years since I lived in China, and longer than that since I had purchased new clothes. My pants are pretty much all in pretty sorry states, but I had managed to avoid wearing one pair of shorts since I arrived in Argentina because I discovered that the zipper was broken. Between my house and the supermarket is a shoe repair shop that also advertises fixing zippers on pants and jackets, so after putting it off for nearly six months, I finally bought myself a birthday present and handed the shorts over. Now, if I can just find a tailor to patch up my jeans and the other pair of shorts.
Powdered sugar
87
Omas Bakery
430
Total:
517 ARS (USD 3.70)
Thu, Feb 11
So, I decided that I needed powdered sugar to make a simple butter frosting for my birthday cake and I bought treats at the German bakery for both Chinese New Years Eve and pastries for my birthday breakfast.
Birthday Lunch
650
Craft Beer
700
Total:
1350 ARS (USD 9.66)
Fri, Feb 12
After a long agonizing decision of which restaurant was offering the tastiest sounding lunch option, I went to one that included a glass of wine and had a matambre a la pizza for the main. Matambre is a thin cut of meat from the underbelly and is the ultimate carb-free pizza crust. That makes three consecutive days of eating “pizza,” except day one was (leftover) fajita pizza and day two was a calzone/giant baked dumpling. Despite some ominous clouds and scattered showers, I was able to visit the bar street again in the evening for a couple drinks at a bar which served full liters in giant glass mugs.
Brunch
600
Mailho Helado (1/4 kilo)
300
Jack House Cheeseburger
890
Total:
1790 ARS (USD 12.81)
Sat, Feb 13
The birthday weekend truly kicked off with a brunch at a very popular cafe which have been regularly passing by since June. I had to sit outside (a good thing) in the blazing sun (a bad thing) and it was insanely expensive since I went full out on a proper brunch. I, obviously, skipped lunch but had some fancy gelato (“Indian” chocolate and “Turkish” chocolate flavors) for a mid-afternoon meal. One was a dark chocolate with figs and nuts, the other a white chocolate with spices and nuts. It’s crazy to drop 300 pesos on a small container of ice cream, when I could literally walk around the corner, get twice the volume and pocket 50 pesos in change. But there is a remarkable difference in quality. In the evening, I crossed another eatery off the bucket list, scratching the itch for a burger and fries at a distinctly American style brew pub where I spent 30 minutes before hand studying the menu of options for meat, meat, or more meat and settling on a fairly traditional double patty BBQ, bacon cheeseburger topped with onion rings that I washed down with a pint of IPA. Also, insanely expensive, but worth it. Since I went at an American dining hour, I was the only patron there to enjoy the vintage Star Wars posters and rock music. Strangely, I attempted to tip, but the waiter/cashier gave it back to me. Apart from the past couple days, I have not been patronizing any dining establishments, but I have noticed that the waiters just accept my money without counting it to see if it is right.
Dozen Empanadas
480 ARS
Total:
USD 3.43
Sun, Feb 14
It’s so much cheaper to make empanadas by hand, but they taste so much better when they come from the shop. The crusts are thinner and crispier, and the fillings just burst with flavor and hot grease.
Carrefour
890 ARS
Total:
USD 6.37
Mon, Feb 15
I ended up buying at consuming a large bag of potato chips and a bag of cookies to accompany some salami, cheese, and wine as my dinner on Monday.
Vino y carne
1266
Watermelon & Bell peppers
180
Firewood
90
Total:
1536 ARS (USD 10.99)
Tue, Feb 16
For the final day of my insane eating week, I planned to make a barbecue. I had invited the guys who lived in the house, but it ended up being just me, which was fine since I had purchased just about the right amount for one gluttonous person. It’s called Fat Tuesday for a reason. I picked up a kilo of ribs and a half kilo of chorizo. I had no intention of bothering with a salad, corn, or any roasted vegetables, but when I bought some watermelon, I picked up a green and red bell pepper on a whim. Those went on the grill, stuffed with cheese, salami, onion, etc. I managed to eat everything except two chorizo that I wrapped up and threw in the freezer.
Fruit
550 ARS
Total:
USD 3.94
Fri, Feb 19
It should come as no surprise that I managed to add about 6 kilos to the scale from my low at the end of January. I started Lent with a 40-hour fast, breaking it with the remainder of the watermelon on Thursday. A day later, I stocked up on fruit, buying 2kg bags of peaches, bananas, and grapes, plus another 3kg+ section of watermelon to last me the weekend and then some.
Salad
70
Total:
USD 0.50
Mon, Feb 21
I added simple salads of lettuce, cherry tomato, cucumber, and green bell pepper (which must be in season since it has gotten so cheap lately) to my diet.
Fruit and yogurt from Vea
437 ARS
Total:
USD 3.12
Tue, Feb 22
I started adding carrots to my salads, more watermelon (at 25 pesos per kilo!), reasonably priced apples and two kinds of yogurt to make peach-banana smoothies.
Contact solution
800
Nescafe Gold
428
Salad
90
Total:
1318 ARS (USD 9.43)
Wed, Feb 23
I made a special trip to the Carrefour to see if I could grab more coffee on sale before it sold out. I decided to try Nescafe since it is about a dollar less than Starbucks and a different flavor than the half full package of coffee I was still drink. I got even fancier in my salad with some arugula.
Produce
360
Watermelon
60
Total:
420 ARS (USD 3.00)
Fri, Feb 26
I picked up some green onion and celery to make a soup stock over the weekend, and a dozen eggs to start enjoying tomato egg drop soup. On my afternoon walk, I decided I didn’t have enough fruit and bought more watermelon. I also started putting lentils on my salads.
Fruit and yogurt @ Vea
562 ARS
Total:
USD 4.02
Sun, Feb 28
Apples, bananas, and my timing was good to stock up on yogurt cups at a discount. The main dairy brand tends to go on sale (buy one, get one half off) not quite every other week, but pretty regularly. As a treat, I also picked up a bottle of soda water and some packs of sugar free drink mix. In 11 days, I managed to lose all of the weight I had packed on since the start of the month. Too bad it isn’t as easy to make up the difference with the budget.
Despite being the shortest month of the year and having one of the best exchange rates to date, this was the most expensive month since I moved into the shared house, costing me an even $196.
I began the New Year with a fast, detox, and diet that did not quite last the entirety of January but should result in a much cheaper than average month. For the detox, I abstained from meat for most of the month, alcohol until the inauguration on January 20, garlic/onion (or other “stimulating” vegetables) for about two weeks, and caffeine for a week. From the meager meal on New Years Eve to my first solid food of 2021, I fasted for 40 hours.
Days 438-468:
Fruit
Jan 2
530 ARS
Photocopy
Jan 5
10 ARS
Salad & Fruit
Jan 5
210 ARS
Total:
750 ARS (USD 5.49)
I ate a lot of fruit (watermelon, grapefruit, apples, bananas, and nectarines) the first week and introduced “watery” salads after a few days of just fruit (watery meaning just lettuce, cucumber and tomato). I was a few days late in making my rent because I didn’t have enough cash to cover it and it is generally difficult to complete any sort of financial services at the beginning of a week/month in Argentina. But after 6 visits to different Western Unions, I was able to get my money. The new exchange rate (132.46 pesos to the dollar is a bit lower than last month’s).
Rent
10,000 ARS
Total:
USD 75.49
Tue, Jan 5
Dairy, Carrots, Fruit
Jan 7
540 ARS
Beans and Bullion
Jan 8
200 ARS
Nectarines
Jan 8
70 ARS
Total:
810 ARS (USD 6.12)
Gradually I enrich my daily salads with carrots and green bell peppers plus protein from chickpeas (canned) or black beans (dried). I also start eating yogurt every morning and I go through a liter of fresh milk over the weekend, hand making banana smoothies. The secret weapon of my diet is the daily cup of broth I make from bullion cubes.
Eggs and Produce
340 ARS
Total:
USD 2.57
Sun, Jan 10
I introduce cooked vegetables (chard & leek) and eggs into my diet, making soup stock from scratch and the previously purchased black beans. I save the beans for salads and the stock for making egg drop soups and eat all the vegetables.
Lentils & white pepper
190 ARS
Salad bowl
120 ARS
Vegetable peeler
190 ARS
Professional knife sharpening
400 ARS
1 kilogram chickpeas
160 ARS
Salad & Bananas
190 ARS
Total:
1250 ARS (USD 9.44)
Tue, Jan 12
A busy shopping day. Being meatless, I continue to stock up on dried legumes both from Atomo and the Central Mercado. The house had a vegetable peeler but it disappeared in mid December. Tired of mangling my carrots and cucumbers with a dull kitchen knife I both splurged on a new peeler and took my personal knife (which I had purchased back in May/June) to get sharpened. Another notable thing about this house is the total lack of bowls, which make my diet of salads and soups rather difficult. Buying a single oversized glass salad bowl has probably been my best investment in Argentina as I now use it for basically every meal.
Champagne
248 ARS
Olive Oil (900 mL)
390 ARS
Total:
638 ARS (USD 4.82)
Wed, Jan 13
I had to go back downtown to pick up my knife the next day, so I went ahead and pulled the trigger on a new bottle of locally made olive oil from the central market and picked up a bottle of champagne a week out from the inauguration because it was looking like there may be reason to pop the cork early with a forced eviction from the White House.
Vea
420 ARS
Vegetables
300 ARS
Total:
720 ARS (USD 5.44)
Thu, Jan 14
I’m doing a lot of running around on a day-to-day basis, but I don’t mind because I am making a concerted effort to get my steps in. At the Vea, I buy another week’s supply of yogurt and carrots, new conditioner, and superglue to attempt to repair my the broken band of my step counter. On top of my usual fruits and salad fixing, I pick up beets (30 pesos) and chard (15 pesos) because they are just so cheap.
Supermarket Vegetables
315 ARS
Total:
USD 2.38
Sun, Jan 17
I didn’t plan out my weekend very well, so when it came time to get the vegetables for the next round of soup stock, I found myself on a Sunday afternoon when all the greengrocers are closed. So, I overpaid a little to get the tomato, onion, and celery I needed. Fortunately, it must be corn harvesting season, as fresh ears of corn are down to 15 pesos a piece.
Eggs, grapefruit, and nectarines
290 ARS
Total:
USD 2.19
Mon, Jan 18
And, I still needed a second trip on Monday to get the rest of my staples. I pay 110 pesos per dozen eggs at the greengrocer, while the supermarkets typically charge 70 pesos per half dozen. The grapefruit, an expensive vice (but I’m eating half a grapefruit a day) is 50% more expensive at the supermarket too.
Grido Helado (sorbets)
250 ARS
Total:
USD 1.89
Wed, Jan 20
To accompany the champagne at the dawn of a new era, I go for a half kilo of strawberry, passion fruit, and peach gelatos.
Carrefour
704 ARS
Fruit & Veg
280 ARS
Empanadas
100 ARS
Total:
1084 ARS (USD 8.18)
Fri, Jan 22
Having broken the seal of the diet with ice cream and champagne, I bought some ladyfinger-type cookies at the Carrefour (which I had gone to mainly to buy balsamic vinegar) as well as three empanadas for my lunch that day. I also had a bottle of Cabernet for the weekend.
Carrots and Watermelon
Jan 24
140 ARS
Eggs, fruit, & Veg
Jan 25
400 ARS
Vea
Jan 26
1040 ARS
Total:
1580 ARS (USD 11.93)
I suppose it is better to splurge on watermelon to satisfy a lazy Sunday afternoon sweet tooth than gelato. However, by the time I hit up the Vea, I am back to my usual self succumbing to the temptations of discounted peanuts, holiday nougat, and medialunas. As the weather has been unreasonably hot and I am still trying to eat a big bowl of tomato and egg soup every day, I decide to switch my breakfast and dinner for the rest of the week, starting the day with soup and saving the yogurt and fruit for dinner.
Carrefour
Jan 28
670 ARS
Starbucks
Jan 28
780 ARS
Vegetables
Jan 28
310 ARS
Watermelon + Lettuce
Jan 29
200 ARS
Cash back
Jan 29
-400 ARS
Total:
1560 ARS (USD 11.78)
After my individual celebration of the inauguration, I was asked about when I–the non-Argentinian–was planning to do another asado. So, after some negotiation we decided to do one on the last Friday of the month. I picked up wine, soda water, and Coca-Cola at the Carrefour for the barbecue, but also a brownie mix for myself. I also took care of all the vegetables for grilling, making salad, or dessert (the watermelon). When we added up and split the expenses, I got some money back and I got to finish off the leftovers over the weekend.
Dried chili
Jan 31
100 ARS
Atomo
Jan 31
283 ARS
Carrefour
Jan 31
1710 ARS
Mailho Gelato
Jan 31
400 ARS
Vea
Feb 1
1360 ARS
Total:
3853 ARS (USD 29.09)
These expenses are most because I got it into my head that I wanted to make a big pot of chili, which involved passing by the central market only to discover that my spice stand didn’t have the whole dried chilis I remember seeing before and that the other bulk dried goods sellers were closed for Sunday, so I still needed to swing by the Atomo to see if they had porotos colorados (red beans), which they didn’t, but I went ahead and picked up a bottle of wine, popcorn and more chili flakes. On the other hand, I decided I wanted to eat oatmeal/muesli/granola in the mornings and I had to go to two different Carrefours because for some reason the smaller one is better stocked than the bigger one. Monday morning, I swing by the Vea to pick up the final ingredients for chili, buying more meat (2 kg and 720 pesos) than I can actually fit in the pot so I end up not even adding the can of beans I resorted to buying at Carrefour.
This month ($176.81) was not as cheap as I was hoping. The few peso difference in the exchange rate added up and I really let loose in the last few days of the month, account for 17% of the months expenses.
Having just finished my first Spanish novel of 2021 (in eleven days, or according to my library reading app a mere 7 hours), now seems like a good time to take a look back at my Spanish learning saga.
The arrival of COVID-19 to South America in March 2020 disrupted the travel side of this travel blog, but in terms of my acquisition of Spanish as a third (?) language, the subsequent and ongoing quarantine has been something of a blessing and a curse.
One of the advantages of backpacking while learning a language is that one gets to arrive in a new hostel every few days, which means that one gets to meet new people and go through the routine “getting to know you” conversation. This conversation of “Where are you from? Where have you been? Where are you going” can quickly become tedious if repeated too often. On the longer trips this ritual can reveal the superficiality of all one’s interactions and heighten the inherent loneliness of travel. However, when taken as an excuse to speak in the target language, it is a perfect practice regimen for improving fluency.
This daily practice was dramatically cut off when Argentina went into lock down. All the other opportunities to engage with local inhabitants also went out the window as one’s world was reduced to a home and a grocery store. When I parted ways with my roommates to live alone, I must have gone three months without speaking to anyone in person (other than the pro forma “tengo una bolsa” or “gracias” of the checkout line).
On the other hand, given the gift of time on my hands, I have consumed more Spanish content in the last 8 months than I could ever have imagined, both reading voraciously and justifying the roughly $5/month cost of Netflix that I haven’t been factoring into my travel costs. Having just finished my first Spanish novel of 2021 (in eleven days, or according to my library reading app a mere 7 hours), now seems like a good time to take a look back at my Spanish learning saga.
Early Exposure
Having spent most of my childhood (excepting the times in Germany) in San Antonio, Las Cruces and El Paso, I was definitely exposed to Spanish at an early age. However, at least as late as sixth grade, my ignorance of the language was total. I recall thinking the Jesus‘s I heard in the school halls were calling out to an Olympian (to be fair, I was really into Greek mythology) and I also remember hearing qué as the letter k. I may have accidentally participated in a bilingual “Who’s on First” routine more than once.
Notably, when the time came to choose a foreign language, I picked German in high school. I rather conspicuously did not want to learn Spanish whether it was a germ of xenophobia or merely a defense mechanism to preserve my identity against the Spanish-speaking host culture. Nevertheless, it is impossible not to learn something when one is both obsessed with Mexican food and every other radio ad includes some Spanish.
When it came to university, I didn’t even consider taking a Spanish class, but discovered that the library had a set of Pimsleur (or Berlitz) CDs. I went through those without really learning anything, but that was when I decided that I should maybe try to get fluent in Spanish at some point in my life.
Reemergence
Years later in the fall of 2017, I was sitting at a cafe in Taidong, Taiwan and not feeling particularly motivated to work on my dissertation. I don’t know how it occurred to me exactly, but I decided I should maybe try to learn Spanish. At the time, I was at a plateau or pinnacle of my Chinese, not needing to actively improve my language skills as I was literally swimming in Chinese academic papers. I had used to enjoy studying Chinese, but I stopped studying the language when I started grad school. So, maybe part of me was yearning to learn something new. In any case, I downloaded a pdf of the Foreign Service Institute’s ancient Spanish textbook and committed myself to Duolingo.
It took me about three months to complete the Spanish tree on Duolingo, after which I switched to Japanese for a couple months, then redid Spanish when the app completely redesigned the tree and structure of the course. If it weren’t for a particularly boozy weekend last August, I would have maintained a streak on the platform for these past three years. Of course, finishing the PhD was always the priority, and maybe ten minutes a day of some Spanish translation exercises wasn’t magically going to make me fluent.
Immersion
It didn’t take me long after arriving in Buenos Aires in October 2019 to realize that Duolingo was not going to be sufficient. Between reviewing lessons and completing new lessons they had added since I last focused on Spanish, I had maybe enough to keep me busy for a month or two. I had spent the week before my flight intensively reviewing and maybe had a notion that I was could be a competent elementary level speaking. Unfortunately, I was disabused of that fantasy when I couldn’t understand a word of what anyone was saying. To be honest, I still don’t know what porteños are saying half the time. So on top of the daily practical experience as already described above, I needed to seek out additional resources.
Lingvist
I had plenty of time to kill in the hostel for the first week while waiting for the airline to find my luggage, so I found a second app–Lingvist. It’s a straightforward vocabulary-focused app, using cloze items (the fancy pedagogical term for fill in the blank) to teach upwards of 5,000 words. It’s good to have example sentences provide context for the vocabulary items while forcing the user to conjugate. It’s bad that each conjugation was apparently listed as a separate word, so “to eat” must have accounted for 5 out of the 5,000 items. I could never make sense of the ranking of words. The app implies there is an ordering from easy to difficult, but the reality seemed to contradict that. After a one-week trial of the full featured app, I put up with the limited-feature free version for a while before springing for a 3-month membership so I could blow through the entirety of the (European) Spanish and (Latin American) Spanish modules, plus the bonus grammar and reading quizzes.
ANKI
ANKI is a popular, general purpose flashcard app with fully customizable parameters for spaced repetition. I found a 10,000 card deck of the top 5,000 most frequent Spanish words (1 card Spanish to English, 1 card English to Spanish). I really don’t like flashcards, so I only worked on it sporadically and never finished getting all the way through the deck.
Podcasts
It took me a couple weeks (or basically my second stop) to realize that Youtube might be useful. In Rosario, I watched several compilations of Spanish Listening exercises from SpanishPod101‘s extensive library. That reminded me of SpanishPod, which apparently no longer exists as a business, but is completely archived on the internet. I find it useful to have short, easy to understand dialogs playing in the background on bus trips or whatever to familiarize my ear and memorize language chunks.
Meanwhile, in my actual podcast app, I am subscribed to News in Slow Spanish (Intermediate–Latin America and Advanced-Spain), The Spanish Dude!, Yabla, and Duolingo. Of course Duolingo has their own podcast for telling bilingual stories of the Spanish speaking world. Yabla is a paid video platform of graded Spanish content with bilingual subtitles that releases free videos via the podcast. The Spanish Dude is an American gringo who talks more about learning strategies and sharing his experiences learning Spanish. News in Slow Spanish is pretty self explanatory but also functions as a free podcast advertising the company’s paid platform.
Reading
It was also the hostel in Rosario where I discovered one of the Diary of a Wimpy Kid series in Spanish translation on the book swap shelf. I suppose that counts as the first book I read in Spanish. I’ve been looking for the others in the series ever since and perusing the book shelves of other hostels, but never found anything worth investing the time with a dictionary to read. Hostel book exchanges tend to be a weird mix of Swedish novels, pulp fiction, and technical manuals.
A lot of my early reading was mediated through Duolingo, which has multimedia stories available for some of their languages. It’s not a particularly fun way to read, as the stories appear one line at a time with audio narration and the ocassional pop quiz question to see if you are paying attention.
By the time I reached Salta, I was starting to Google “online Spanish textbook” and “Spanish learning resources,” which lead to finding two graded Spanishreaders on Project Gutenberg, dated of course, but enough to keep me busy for a month or two. I also found Practical Spanish to be quite useful with just a number of readings sorted by beginner, intermediate, and advanced.
Video
Though I tried to watch a couple of Pedro Almódovar films in the early stages of my trip, it was the poking around on Youtube that resulted in more substantial rewards. As recommended by some list of resources, there is a short sitcom (only about 10 episodes) called Extra en Español about an American in Barcelona. It’s a cheesy, but written with simpler Spanish and spoken slower because the target audience is learners of Spanish. Similarly, there was a telenovela called Destinos that uses almost only English in the introductory episode and builds with purely Spanish finale.
I had managed to work through most of the resources listed above by the end of 2019, and the combination of approaches paid rapid dividends. After two months of solid studying, I felt about as fluent in Spanish as I was in Chinese after two years. Not perfect, but comfortably fluent in most situations.
In January 2020, I had a flurry of reading in Cordoba because I stayed first at a Selena hostel where my dorm was next to the hostel library (yes, a whole library) then I stayed in an Airbnb with an absent host, who happened to be a kindergarten teacher. At the hostel, I read an illustrated abridge version of Around the World in 80 Days. In the airbnb, I read at least 100 kids books, which isn’t that many considering many of the books were 20 pages long with one sentence per page. Children’s books are challenging in their own way because the names of so many types of animals and fairies don’t really come up in adult-focused material. In the month of traveling between Cordoba and Mendoza, I made a habit frequenting cafés, where I could enjoy a coffee and the daily paper, which I could work my way through without having to look up so many words.
Quarantine
As the lockdown was going into effect, I snatched a young adult novel from the hostel’s paltry book exchange. The Two Marias is an Argentinian coming-of-age story about a girl who is reading the diary of her great-grandmother’s voyage from Italy. The diary is in Italian (with a few words changed into Spanish and an Italian-Spanish glossary in the back), so not the ideal reading material, but still technically my first Spanish-language original book. When we peeled off from the hostel into a house, I discovered my French roommate had a stack of choose-your-own-adventure books in Spanish (all translations of original English). I think I read three of them before moved into my own apartment and lost access to that treasure trove.
The first house had a Netflix account attached to the big screen smart TV, and apart from group viewings of 80s action films, I rewatched Extra en Español with the German to encourage his Spanish learning and watched the first two seasons of Money Heist (La Casa de Papel) with the Frenchman for pleasure. That’s also when I started to watch the original Colombian Ugly Betty (Yo soy Betty, La Fea). So, when we moved into a second house with a smart TV but no Netflix account, I decided it was worth setting up my own account.
Netflix
Apart from the two aforementioned shows (finishing episode 335 of Ugly Betty at the end of June), I have watched a lot of Spanish content on Netflix including both limited run sitcoms like Psiconautas (Argentina) and The Neighbor (Spain) as well as more Colombian telenovelas like The Good Bandit (63 episodes) and Bolívar (still only half way through the 60 episode program after four months).
The more impressive feat is the amount of cinema I’ve watched.
Title
Date Watched
Year
Country
Lusers
6/27/2020
2015
Arg/Chile/Peru
Esperando la carroza
6/4/2020
1985
Argentina
Pizza, Beer, & Smokes
10/30/2020
1998
Argentina
Caida del Cielo
8/21/2020
2016
Argentina
Mi Obra Maestra
9/12/2020
2018
Argentina
So Much Love to Give
9/9/2020
2019
Argentina
Attitude Test
6/21/2020
2016
Chile
No estoy loca
6/11/2020
2018
Chile
Mujeres arriba
7/5/2020
2020
Chile
Loving is Losing
9/27/2020
2018
Columbia
Santo Cachón
7/3/2020
2018
Columbia
Si saben cómo me pongo ¿pa’ qué me invitan?
10/29/2020
2018
Columbia
Feo pero sabroso
6/17/2020
2019
Columbia
Death Can Wait
7/9/2020
2020
Columbia
Instructions Not Included
10/11/2020
2013
Mexico
Elvira I Will Give You My Life but I’m Using It
9/13/2020
2014
Mexico
Grandma’s Birthday
7/5/2020
2015
Mexico
Warehoused
9/5/2020
2015
Mexico
El tamaño sí importa
10/14/2020
2016
Mexico
Macho
10/19/2020
2016
Mexico
No Manches Frida
9/6/2020
2016
Mexico
Un padre no tan padre
7/8/2020
2016
Mexico
¿Cómo matar a un esposo muerto?
10/15/2020
2017
Mexico
Ana and Bruno
12/15/2020
2017
Mexico
Camino a Marte
10/16/2020
2017
Mexico
Malacopa
1/1/2021
2018
Mexico
Ni tú ni yo
12/19/2020
2018
Mexico
ROMA
6/6/2020
2018
Mexico
Como caído del cielo
6/30/2020
2019
Mexico
Grandma’s Wedding
7/10/2020
2019
Mexico
Grandma’s Last Wishes
12/30/2020
2020
Mexico
Mutiny of the Worker Bees
6/20/2020
2020
Mexico
Don’t Call Me Spinster
10/28/2020
2018
Peru
How to Get Over a Breakup
6/14/2020
2018
Peru
Sí, Mi Amor
8/5/2020
2020
Peru
Off Course
9/20/2020
2015
Spain
Spy Time
4/26/2020
2015
Spain
For Your Own Good
9/17/2020
2017
Spain
The Bar
9/22/2020
2017
Spain
Thi Mai
10/20/2020
2017
Spain
Jefe
9/27/2020
2018
Spain
Superlopez
7/18/2020
2018
Spain
Yucatán
10/4/2020
2018
Spain
<abbr title="With Jean Reno speaking Spanish">4L</abbr>
9/23/2020
2019
Spain
The Platform
5/9/2020
2019
Spain
I love you, stupid
7/7/2020
2020
Spain
Whisky
12/21/2020
2004
Uruguay
Porno para principiantes
6/13/2020
2018
Uruguay
<abbr title="Will Ferrel learned Spanish for this role">Casa de mi Padre</abbr>
7/4/2020
2012
USA
Spanish films watched on Netflix. You don’t need to bother counting, there are 49 films listed.
Subtitles
I should note that I am not at a listening level where I can turn off the subtitles. I watch some things with English and some with Spanish. I like the variety and I think it helps to do both. With Spanish subtitles, because they are for the hearing impaired, you get extra vocabulary telling you about creaking doors, the names of songs, and [engine starting]. With stronger reading skills, I can use my eyes to support my ears in order to understand what was said. On the other hand, with English, reading is so fast and effortless, I can actually focus more attention on what I am hearing. Plus, the sometimes idiomatic translation expands my understanding of the subtleties of language use.
Of course, I’ve probably watched ten times as much content in English, but the nice perk about Netflix is I can turn on Spanish subtitles and practice reading while bingewatching which ever show.
Literature
It took moving into an Airbnb with a (small) collection of books to get me reading again. From that shelf, I read Siddhartha, The Hobbit, and Prince Caspian in translation at which point it occured to me to look up Spanish language books in my library app. I had looked periodically beginning in October, but didn’t hit the magical point of literacy + competency to find things worth reading. Apart from a smattering of kids books, I read several substantial YA books (100 pages, zero pictures) and The Magician’s Nephew. Unfortunately that was the only available book in the Chronicles of Narnia, but the entire Harry Potter series was available and that kept me busy from July through December.
Book
Reading Time
Sorcerer’s Stone
9:38
Chamber of Secretes
10:32
Prisoner of Azkaban
13:42
Goblet of Fire
23:15
Order of the Phoenix
31:45
Half Blood Prince
19:17
Deathly Hallows
25:42
The Harry Potter Series in Spanish
Meanwhile, I inhereted the Frenchman’s library of books (which were originally borrowed from one of his Argentinian friends) via some sort of tontine, and can add a couple more Choose-Your-Own-Adventure books and a R.L. Stein book to the reading list.
All told, it’s a lot of reading, and while I may still have doubts about my fluency, I can confidently claim to be literate in Spanish. Strangely enough, with the one exception mentioned above, every book I read was translated from English into Spanish. In other words, I hadn’t read any actual Spanish literature. I had picked up and put down Cien Años de Soledad, but ultimately decided I needed more reading practice with the more accesible YA lit.
2021 will be different. I am done with the second hand works. It is my resolution to make this the year of Spanish Literature. While most people wanting to read more aim at a book a month, my goal will be 16 novels. Since I can check out books for 3 weeks at a time, I should be a little faster than a book a month. As mentioned at the beginning of this novelistic blog post, I’ve already finished my first book, Laura Esquivel’s Como Agua Para Chocolate in a week and a half. I don’t expect every book to be so short, but after the later Harry Potter novels, long books aren’t so intimidating. Nonetheless, I’m going to leave Garcia-Marquez for later in the year. I believe my next book will be Isabel Allende’s La Casa de los Espíritus and the final book should, of course, be Don Quixote. By that time, I think I can close the book on Spanish, and start seriously working on language #4 (unless it’s time to go back and read the Four Great Classics of Chinese Literature).
Not much to say to summarize the month, just working and running. Despite a pretty bad diet, I was making a little bit of progress on my weight.
Days 406-437:
Spices at Market
340
Carrefour
1058
6 eggs + Vegetables
260
Total:
1658 ARS (USD 12.13)
Wed, Dec 2
I went a little crazy buying spices at the central market, picking up garam masala, tumeric, and Chinese five spice. Of course, I picked up chicken, yogurt, and lentils at the Carrefour for a four day Indian cooking bonanza (where I just added a new dish every day to the leftovers). I also discovered some really delicious chocolate covered peanuts.
Rent
10000 ARS
Total
USD 72.20
Thu, Dec 3
So, I had also swung by the Western Union on Wednesday giving me a new personal exchange rate of 138.5 pesos to the dollar, meaning the real cost of my rent was even lower this month.
Vea
1635 ARS
Total:
USD 11.81
Sun, Dec 6
I went a little wild at the Vea on Sunday, taking advantage of the ofertas to stock up white wine, olives, roasted peanuts and more. The discounts knocked almost 500 pesos off the bill, though as I review the receipt, there are items I don’t recognize: “Espuma PRESTOB”, “SOBRE NEOPLEX TSII”. Those don’t sound like anything I would have bought. Strange.
Carrefour
1140 ARS
Total:
USD 8.23
Tue, Dec 8
There was a several week period where all the supermarkets were offering whole chickens at an unbelievable price (under 100 pesos per kilo). So, I started thinking of roasting a chicken and potatoes, and after a few weeks of stewing it over, I decided to go for it. Unfortunately, the quality of the frozen chickens was a little crummy, so I bought a fresh chicken (at 215 pesos/kg). It’s about the same price because the “marinate” the chickens before freezing, which just means injecting them with water to make them weigh more. The chicken lasted me four meals, and the 3 kg bag of potatoes lasted the rest of the week. Ironically, it was the week of the heat wave and I kept telling people not to use the oven.
Dozen eggs + Vegetables
330+80
Deli
320
Vea
1285
Total:
USD 14.53
Sat, Dec 12
Cabbages prices were back down to 50 pesos each, so it was time to shift back into a vegetable centered diet. I saw the price of the watermelons (35/kg) on the way out and turned around to pick up a pre-cut quarter watermelon. I’ve been eating a lot of watermelon, and it’s been a blast to watch the prices go down from 80 to 35 as we get into the season. At the same time, I had the strangest craving to make my own McDonald’s style breakfast sandwiches, so bought the appropriate cheap cheese and salami (instead of ham) at the deli. I also took advantage of the sale on Imperial beers and decided to make fresh meatballs from a mix of beef and chorizo for a spaghetti dinner on Sunday. So… not all vegetables.
Carrefour Hypermarket
2219 ARS
Total:
USD 16.02
Wed, Dec 16
More coffee (ground Starbucks in clearance for 478 and a new brand of beans for 426), more snacks (chocolate covered peanuts and chocolate covered raisins), and mozzarella to make pizzas (to finish off the salami and marinara sauce) after eating pasta & cabbage all week.
Dozen Eggs & Vegetables
350 ARS
Total:
USD 2.53
Sun, Dec 20
Mostly salad ingredients and a pair of grapefruit.
Wine
460
Carrefour
1778
Total:
2238 ARS (USD 16.16)
Tue, Dec 22
Beginning of Christmas prep, sparkling wine (190), 100% orange juice (172), cheeses, crackers, salami, peanut butter, honey, and pork ribs. I still hadn’t used the Chinese five spice for anything, so some braised pork ribs sound like a perfect meal to tide me over until the big day.
Vegetables
120
Famiglia Perin Gelado (1/2kg)
500
Total:
620 ARS (USD 4.48)
Wed, Dec 23
I wasn’t planning to do a lot of vegetables, but some lettuce and tomato for a salad and 4 ears of corn to throw on the grill.
Butcher
1970
Bakery
330
Total:
2300 ARS (USD 16.61)
Thu, Dec 24
Shops were still open on Christmas Eve, but a lot of queuing was needed to get inside. I bought tenderloin, tapa de asado, and chorizo for the grill along with bacon (because I couldn’t find any at Carrefour). In the second bakery I went to, I found the little cookies I like and grabbed a Christmas pudding stuffed with fruits and nuts.
Vea
288 ARS
Total:
USD 2.08
Sun, Dec 27
When was it I accidentally bought two bottles of balsamic vinegar? Well, I finished both of them off this week without realizing the danger, and with a lot of salad leftover, I needed to run to the store. I grabbed some more eggs too, a not-quite-diet coke, a baguette, and a single potato as well. I made choripan with some of the left over grilled chorizo, which were so good with sauerkraut and cheese and the fresh potato chips I made.
Watermelon and salad
200 ARS
Total:
USD 1.44
Tue, Dec 29
As I am finishing off the remnants of all the barbecue and Christmas junkfood, I needed to supplement my diet with watery foods, like lettuce, cucumber and watermelon.
A pint of APA
200 ARS
Total:
USD 1.44
Thu, Dec 31
I was expecting to be able to go out for a couple pints and maybe a burger and fries or something for New Years Eve, but everything was closed. Not because of Covid, but because of the holiday. Only one bar on the bar street was open, and they closed at 8pm. I’m still expecting beer prices to be 120-160 pesos (non Happy Hour), so 190 was a bit of a shock. Since I wasn’t planning to cook and I was planning on starting a diet in January, I didn’t have any food in the house.The supermarkets were also closed (since what time, I’m not sure) and no food was available on the food delivery app. It was a rather hungry New Year’s Eve for me as I lay in bed and watched movies from 9pm onward.
Just under $180 for the month, not bad considering how much I drank and how crazy I went for Christmas. Though slightly more than November, December is a day longer. I anticipate January to be very cheap.
The month of November (since, let’s be honest, is it really even worth updating this on a bimonthly basis) passed rather quickly, and was dominated by American politics and culture, i.e. the elections and Thanksgiving, both events came me a chance to use the parrilla in the back patio of the house and plenty of excuses to over indulge a bit. This should be clearly reflected in the higher expenses of the month.
Days 376-405:
Vea
974.5
Queso
130
Vegetables
300
Carne y leña
1385
Total:
2789.5 ARS (USD 20.41)
Mon, Nov 2
This was the last of the stocking up on food and alcohol to barbecue during the elections and manage my stress through election week. My menu included ribs, two cuts of beef, chorizo, morcilla (blood sausage), eggplant, and asparagus on the grill, plus fresh guacamole and fire-roasted salsa with tortilla chips. The five pounds of meat lasted through the weekend.
Beer, chocolate, cookies
717.75
Total:
USD 5.25
Wed, Nov 4
Okay, so maybe I was secretly hoping for a clear blowout on Tuesday night, and the disappointing returns required some serious eating of feelings. Luckily, Vea came through with lots of buy 2 get 1 free sales.
Broccoli and leek
100
Total:
USD 0.73
Fri, Nov 6
I had a bunch of cilantro left over from the salsa/guac, so I decided to use it in 葱爆牛肉 (exploding onion beef) and some broccoli to stir fry up with whatever beef remained. It was almost even more satisfying to eat it like that than fresh from the grill.
Grido 1/2 kg helado
220
Total:
USD 1.61
Sun, Nov 8
Did you really think the cookies and chocolate would last enough days? I had to get something to celebrate.
Rent
10,000
Vea
691.5
Vegetables
110
Total:
10801.5 ARS (USD 79.02)
Mon, Nov 9
Paid my rent late, as usual, but unprompted for. Vea had a sale on olive oil working out to 230 pesos for a half liter (when I paid 250 last time around).
Carrefour
1033
Veg
130
Total:
1163 ARS (USD 8.51)
Wed, Nov 11
There wasn’t anything much exciting mid month as I got serious again about dropping all the post-election weight gain with lots of salads and healthy eating. Ironically, after going all out on the guac/salsa, but making do with withered old chili peppers, all the markets suddenly have fresh jalepenos in stock.
Veg
100
Total:
USD 0.73
Fri, Nov 13
I’ve almost got it down to a science how my vegetable bill always comes out to about 100 pesos, though my shopping list was a bit different this time. I wanted to get a head of cabbage, but at 80 pesos, I found it too expensive, and went for the acelga (chard?) which is only 15 pesos for a bunch. A green bell pepper costs about 20 pesos, a small head of iceberg lettuce 10, one perita tomato (like a roma or san marzano) was 23, and a single navel orange (which turned out to be not so good) was 36 pesos. Tomato prices really fluctuate a lot.
Grido 1/2 kg helado
220
Total:
USD 1.61
Sun, Nov 15
Carrefour
1670
Cherry tomatos
20
Total:
1690 ARS (USD 12.36)
Mon, Nov 16
It’s nice to be able to wash my clothes regularly, but in 10 weeks I had finished off the laundry detergent I bought when I moved in. I bought some powder this time, which will be more convenient when/if I need to move. The bill was also a bit high because of the 500g bag of coffee beans (654 pesos). More salads for the next few meals, but this time with steak, cheese, and olives.
Lunch
1100
Fruit and salad @ Vea
560
Total:
1660 ARS (USD 12.14)
Wed, Nov 18
I’ve been keeping to the MWF schedule for going out even though that policy long since lapsed. I actually met a new human being and went to lunch at restaurant where we did not have to write down our contact information or anything of the sort. They really shouldn’t be so fast to relax the restrictions, but it was nice to have a restaurant meal for the first time in two and a half months. Watermelon season is coming in, and I also got a good deal on avocados (45 pesos each). I’m surprised how much fruit and vegetables I buy at the Vea because it is either cheaper than the fruits stands I’m familiar with or close enough in price and just more convenient.
Chicken
220
Wine
400
2 Broccoli
70
Total:
690 ARS (USD 5.05)
Fri, Nov 20
Fairly self-explanatory.
Spices @ atomo
100
Total:
USD 0.73
Sat, Nov 21
I get so bored on the weekends when I force myself to take a break from working. With Thanksgiving coming up, I decided to make a trip to the central market to see if perchance the meat sellers sold turkey. Unfortunately, it was closed by the time I made it there, so I gave up on that idea. I passed by the Atomo on my slightly roundabout way there to get spices for making stuffing and apple pie. They didn’t have (ground) nutmeg or sage and the cloves were a little too pricey, but I did get thyme and rosemary on the cheap plus some baking soda/powder for some future use. The coolest thing was that they bill came out to 97 and they gave me a bouillon cube to round up. It was perfect, since, without meat drippings, I would need something for the gravy.
Pastries @ Oma’s Bakery
120
Total:
USD 0.88
Sun, Nov 22
The pastries, which were definitely 30 pesos each at the end of August, are now 40 each. Aarrrggh!
Carrefour
700
Veg
60
Total:
760 ARS (USD 5.56)
Mon, 23
I went to the Carrefour because they usual have bakery sandwich bread marked down for immediate consumption and I needed dried bread to make stuffing. That wasn’t the case, but I bought the cheapest bread available. On the other hand, a quarter watermelon and half pineapple were available at steep discounts (33 pesos each). I also needed corn chips because those avocados I bought were ripening too fast and my only hope was to make more guacamole. Monday was also Sovereignty Day, another Argentinian holiday.
Vea
746
Wine
350
Apples
230
Vegetables
380
Total:
1706 ARS (USD 12.48)
Wed, Nov 25
Although I did a solo barbecue for the election, I wanted to share Thanksgiving with people, so I let my roommates and working space co-inhabitants know about my plans to make another asado for the holiday. The menu as I imagined it included, obviously, the meat, plus mashed potatoes, gravy, stuffing, grilled asparagus, grilled corn, a big salad, and an apple pie. It was a lot of running around getting everything. I bought a bunch of beers at the Vea as well.
Corn (six ears)
180
Total:
USD 1.32
Thu, Nov 26
I had to go out in the morning to finally find some corn. I was annoyed because I didn’t plan out my shopping trips so well, but in the end I got the corn at the cheapest price. I also went with one of the guys to buy the meat. He fronted the cash, and although I was expecting to pay into that, I think everyone else decided that my other contributions were a sufficient share of the costs. We bought enough meat for six (which is generally 500 grams per person in Argentina), and there was basically just a half a palm’s worth of meat leftover at the end of the day. I was able to finish off the mashed potatos, corn, stuffing, and asparagus by Saturday.
Atomo
636
Eggs and veg (e.g. one carrot, one onion, one tomato)
89
Total:
725 ARS (USD 5.30)
Sun, Nov 29
Though I had finished off all the Thanksgiving leftovers by Saturday, I still had two apples, two potatoes, two beets, several celery stalks, a handful of parsley, and a tray full of shredded cabbage (which I didn’t buy, but was able to perform a public service by using). The logical solution was to make borscht and more apple pies (in empanada form). I don’t like dill, so I used parsley, thyme, and nutmeg to season the soup and it came out great. Having bought rosemary and thyme just to make stuffing, I’m going to have to hustle to find ways to use them, like through some rosemary in to some fresh dinner rolls (which I only made because the bakery I was expecting to pass on the way home wasn’t open).
Loaf of bread
100
Total:
USD 0.73
Mon, Nov 30
Since I’m going to live on borscht and salad until the next month (Dec 2), I need some bread too.
Monthly Expenses in the Shared House
Month
Expenses (USD)
September
215.89
October
187.52
November
174.42
I really thought I spent a lot in November, but it’s the cheapest month yet (and also a day shorter than October). So, I guess I should go out drinking on the weekends, go on dates, and organize barbecues every week, or something like that to keep average spending steady.
Well, I certainly wasn’t expecting to spend a whole year in Argentina (six months would have been enough), but here we are. It is certainly a lot different than my first week in Buenos Aires when I had to survive a week with just the clothes on my back. I’m still not sure I understand Argentinians any better when they speak, though I know I know a lot more Spanish than I did. Spending my days working, exercising, planning meals, and watching Netflix is not an objectively exciting life, but it sure beats hanging around the hostel calling the airlines once a day and feeling powerless.
Days 360-375:
Carrefour
1230
Vea
1070
Total:
2300 ARS (USD 17.64)
Mon, Oct 19
I made a point of going back to the Carrefour on Monday to take advantage of the liquidation-priced coffee, but the ofertas had disappeared. Nevertheless, the Starbucks grinds were still 66 pesos cheaper in the supermarket than at an actual Starbucks so I picked up a bag plus another bag of cheaper coffee grinds to use for cold brew. As the weather heats up, it will be nice to have iced vanilla/cinnamon lattes in the afternoons.
My shopping trip to the Vea was even more schizophrenic. Basically, I just wanted to take advantage of a bunch of deals before they expired on Tuesday: dark chocolate @ B2G1, wine @ B2G1, and alfajores 20% off. Plus apples, bananas, and carrots which were of good enough quality and price.
Hair Band
50
Flipflops
290
Chorizo (>1 kilo)
270
Cheese (Provo + Muzza)
280
Corn flours & Chili flakes
110
Atomo
227
Lettuce, bell pepper, tomato
80
Total:
1307 ARS (USD 10.02)
Wed, Oct 21
After weeks of dealing with my long hair falling into my eyes and months of putting up with a broken house shoe, I finally dedicated my wednesday weekend to some actual shopping, including a pass through the central market where I was picking up some ingredients for a planned deep dish Chicago-style pizza, to be made on Thursday. I swung by the Atomo on the way back to get butter (permanently on sale), whole black pepper corns (a whole 1% cheaper than bulk at the market), sliced olives, and yeast. It turns out that chili flakes were also about 1% cheaper (being on sale) than from the bulk dry goods stand.
Vea
371 ARS
Total:
USD 2.85
Fri, Oct 23
Though that massive pizza was enough to last several days, I still swung by the Vea for milk, yogurt, and bananas. I used the remaining half of chorizo to make a fusion Hong Kong Argentina rice casserole on Sunday.
Vegetables
230 ARS
Total:
USD 1.76
Mon, Oct 26
The rice dish was enormous and I decided to stretch it out through the week by pairing it with vegetables at every meal (cabbage, spinach, or lettuce). For variety, I grabbed an eggplant and bell pepper to make a sort of shakshuka that also lasted three meals.
Vea
172
Carrefour Hypermarket
570
Total:
742 ARS (USD 5.69)
Wed, Oct 28
With my meals set for the week, I didn’t really need to go shopping, but I wanted to use my off day to do some price scouting. In order to deal with the anxiety of the upcoming election, I decided to plan a barbecue. In the Vea, I picked up some hand soap, flour (liquidation priced), and a pair of avocados for 90 pesos. In the Carrefour, I picked up cereal, milk, tortilla chips, and deodorant. I can’t believe after a six month break, I need to start wearing deodorant again. ¡Qué asco!
Vea
1130
Atomo
640
Lettuce, tomato, eggs
100
Ferruccio Sopplesa
430
Total:
2300 ARS (USD 17.64)
Fri, Oct 30
Time to start really prepping for the barbecue by buying lots of booze–six bottles of cerveza at the Vea, whisky and a bottle of wine at the Atomo. I also grabbed tomato sauce and fettuccine for weekend meals and a half kilo of gelato at another shop I had never tried before.