Days 124-5: International Travel

Though I was spending pretty heavily the last few days in Japan, I woke up with too much money and not enough time. I would have been perfectly fine with barely a 100 yen coin because the airport bus cost 1100 yen and I had a 1000 yen deposit coming my way on checkout. However, because I had ended up not buying a JR pass, I was still a little flush with cash. Regarding time, my flight was scheduled at 1 pm, but upon further review, I realized that one needed to budget 90 minutes travel time to the airport on top of whatever is recommended for international travel.

With these factors in mind, I was able to run out in the morning to accomplish a major task–fresh seafood from a market. The Nijo Ichiba Market, which is now basically just a tourist trap, still has stalls selling crab and a handful of attached restaurants offering various donburi (meat on rice bowls) featuring salmon roe, uni (sea urchin), and various combinations of seafood. I spent way too much time indecisively walking from restaurant to restaurant comparing menus and prices and attempting to psychically suss out my best value before giving up and just picking one. It was a lot of money, but it was good to try.

Breakfast of Champions

On the way back, I swung by a supermarket to pick up a bottle of Japanese whisky as a gift (not necessarily the most premium stuff, but a medal winning recipe and appropriately boxed up). The idea to grab a bottle of whisky as a gift came about from the announcement in a WeChat group of a birthday party perfectly timed for the day I returned to Beijing. However, upon rescheduling of the birthday party, I still figured it might be nice to have something to give my advisor. He doesn’t really drink whisky, but that doesn’t matter.

Back in the hostel, I quickly packed up all my stuff and checked out. Looking at the bus schedule, I still had about half and hour before I needed to leave, so I took the time to charge up my phone. I nearly missed the bus. As I was waiting at the red light across the street from the bus stop, I saw the bus come to the intersection. It’s light turned green before mine. Fortunately, there were enough people also going to the airport to slow it down as the driver has to get off, open up the luggage containers, and do all that. Surprisingly, the bus swung by the train station (in the opposite direction) to pick up more passengers. I was starting to get a little anxious about timing as we finally pulled up to the international terminal, but everything went very smoothly. I was able to get rid of almost all my coins on bus fare, I checked my luggage through to Beijing, got groped in security, and had an hour to kill before boarding began. Having 2000 yen left, I looked at some shops and restaurants, but didn’t necessarily want to buy anything. I will note that the Chitase (Sapporo) Airport has decently priced selection of Japanese food in it food court. I plopped down at a charging station and worked until it was time to board.

Asiana Airlines fed us (bulgogi and rice) and I watched “Glass” on the 2.5 hour flight. I passed through Korean customs readily and it was a really weird feeling to not pick up my luggage. After getting into Wi-fi to message a friend and check the best route to Gangnam, I topped up my Korean metro card (actually not needed) and commuted the 1:45 downtown from Incheon Airport. Arriving at the rendezvous point a little early and a lot famished, I wandered over to a 7-Eleven to grab a bottle of grapefruit soju and a snack (a protein bar), then sat down on a step by the subway exit where some street performers were singing. It’s amazing how much I love Korea. It felt so good to be there, especially now that it was summer and everyone was out of their winter coats.

It’s really hard to get a good shot of Korean barbecue

When my friend finished work, we went straight to barbecue, ordering three cuts of pork for an amazing if slightly pricey meal. I picked up the tab, but she treated the shaved ice afterwards. We said goodbye, and I hopped on the subway (catching an express train) to go all the way back to the airport, where I had booked a “capsule hotel” room for the night. I had to walk about twenty minutes from the airport, through the long-term parking lot, underneath a maglev train (closed, but runs between the airport and a water park), to a community of high-rises and airport hotels. My hotel, despite being called a “capsule,” was just a private room with shared toilet and bath. I cleaned up and pretty much went straight to bed.


It was stuffy in the room, and I kept waking up early, anxious about the flight. Finally, my alarm went off at 6:15. I dressed, used the restroom, and went to the lobby at 6:30. The hotel manager had offered to drive me to the airport in the morning and there was one other guest also waiting at the time. Funnily enough, it probably took just as long to drive–what with the highways and all–as it was to walk the direct route.

I was already checked in for my flight, but updated my boarding pass at a self-service terminal to figure out what my gate was. When I saw the line for security, I was glad I was early. It moved along fast enough, but there must be at least dozens of flights leaving at roughly the same time in the morning.

I needed coffee and possibly a breakfast, but headed over to my gate first, where I found a Dunkin Donut literally at my gate. I think I bought a donut there the last time I flew out of Incheon (going to Shanghai in 2016). I had a breakfast, then moved to a charging station to top up my phone. It’s hard to charge in Korea since I lost my Korean plug adapter.

Asiana Airlines almost didn’t want to let me on the airplane, and to be fair, I should have been better prepared with a printed copy of my onward flight and a screenshot of the 144-hour transit visa. I only screenshotted (in Chinese) the summary page of my next flights. Of course, as they were calling to check if it was okay to fly me, they were also concerned if I had a visa to Russia. No, I am going to Germany. After everyone else boarded the plane, they finally got the okay. I sat down, but five minutes later they grabbed me and asked if I had the ticket numbers of my onward flights. I was out of wifi range and hadn’t locally saved a copy, so I was escorted back onto the gangplank to get a wifi connection. I quickly got into my email and downloaded the pdf, but the ground crew member was suddenly nowhere to be seen. Not wanting to go all the way back in to the terminal, where they could just leave without me, I simply returned to my seat. After a few minutes, we pulled away from the gate, and I guess that was that.

We were served the same meal on the much shorter flight to Beijing (except with pudding instead of yogurt). As soon as I stepped off the plane, I could feel the oppressive air attacking my throat and lungs. I followed the long walk to immigration and stopped at the visa services desk just before it and grabbed a temporary visit card. By the time I finished filling it out, there was no one in line, so I went straight up for processing. It went very smoothly and matter-of-fact. All that was important was seeing the onward flight and having a contact address/phone number. With a fancy little sticker in my passport, I proceeded to pass through immigration and customs as normal.

Thus, I returned to China, and my travel blogging will take a short hiatus until Phase II: European Vacation kicks off.

Seafood Donburi2700 JPY
Mt Fuji Whisky2106 JPY
Airport Bus1100 JPY
Flight(s)2198 RMB
Hotel 222 RMB
Tmoney Recharge10,000 KRW
BBQ52,000 KRW
Snack & Soju3,200 KRW
2 donuts & coffee6,800 KRW
Total: 3254.25 RMB
(USD 471.44)

Running Total: 43626.5 RMB (USD 6320.2)
Daily Average: 349 RMB (USD 50.56)

Whew, that air ticket really killed the daily average, but overall its pretty impressive to have traveled so much in such expensive countries for basically 50 bucks a day including everything.

Days ?? The Lost Week

I hate flying. I don’t mind being cramped on a plane, but I hate the whole rigamarole of getting to the airport, checking in, going through security, and dealing with budget airlines. I dumped a bunch of stuff and figured I’d press my luck with luggage that was within 1 kilo of the very low weight allowance. I checked in at a self-service kiosk, which didn’t even give me the option of specifying checked luggage. That freaked me out until I found the counter for Jeju Airlines. They gave me the third degree about my visa status (I don’t have the slip which I’m not sure I lost or was never given).

In any case, I got to Busan and spent the rest of the week in R&R.

Day 64:

Flight231 RMB
Thai Food26700
Starbucks4300
Total:418.55 RMB
(USD 62.33)

Day 65:

Croissants & Coffee13600
Movie Ticket (Us)7000
Lunch17500
Hot Springs9000
Groceries14670
Total:61,770
(RMB 373.7)
(USD 55.65)

Day 66:

Groceries25200
Coffee10000
Total:35200
(213 RMB)
(USD 31.7)

Day 67:

Mr. Pizza Lunch Buffet10900
Quiz Entry2000
Beer14000
Popcorn1200
Total:28,100
(170 RMB)
(USD 25.3)

Day 68:

Groceries29240
Total:(176.9 RMB)
(USD 26.34)

Day 69:

Starbucks Card20000
Total:(121 RMB)
(USD 18)

It sucks that Starbucks in Korea are going “cashless” so you get forced to by a rechargeable rewards card (which is only good in Korea).

Day 70:

Vietnamese Food24700
Total:(149.4 RMB)
(USD 22.25)

Day 71:

Iced latte5900
Total:(35.7 RMB)
(USD 5.32)

Running Total: 19068 RMB (USD 2839.7)
Daily Average: 268.6 RMB (USD 39.99)

Day 63: Marathon Man

I woke up naturally about 15 minutes before my alarm was set to go off, and I used that time to drink a bit of coffee and hit my daily Duolingo quota, which incidentally finished the Korean course, every lesson completely maxed out. So, I suppose there is a question of how to keep my 450 day Duolingo streak going now that I am “done” with Korean.

It was cold outside and windy. I was glad I decided to throw on a sweater at the last minute. I got off the public bus at the World Cup Stadium eMart and did not see the scheduled shuttle bus to the venue. As I was about to do a loop around to see if it was waiting off the main road, I saw it come barreling down the highway. We didn’t wait around long before taking off. It was nearly an hour to the Hallim Sports venue and as I got off the bus it seemed even colder than before, if that was possible. The swarms of student volunteers were in a panic as no one seemed to have predicted such unseasonably cold weather. I sheltered in a gymnasium for a moment before deciding to bite the bullet and grab my kit from the information table.

As I still had more than an hour to the beginning of the race I headed over to a convenience store to rustle up some breakfast. It was a smaller store so there were slim pickings, but I made due with a sugar boost and a hot coffee. I returned to the stadium to use the restroom, put on the free T-shirt as an extra layer, and throw my ticket in to the lucky draw. The sun was fully out, but it wasn’t enough to make up for the gusts of arctic wind. I was truly impressed by the number of runners committed to shorts and t-shirts as their running gear. A military marching band played the national anthem, and speeches were made with a full camera crew in operation (as a broadcasting station sponsored race, I wouldn’t expect less), and eventually the race began.

It was good. I probably made a fool of myself at times singing along to the chorus of various songs. The coastline course was amazing, the air was super clean, the sea sparkled in the sunlight as waves crashed upon black volcanic rock in a burst of spray. The route was mainly closed off to traffic with teams of volunteers controlling traffic at every intersection. I think I reached the runner’s high within the first 2km and despite some minor pain in some tendons never hit the wall.

Upon completing the race, I noticed that my running tracker on my phone quit a few minutes early, meaning I wouldn’t get “credit” for a half marathon, unless I wanted to run a couple extra laps around the track. Oh well. After rehydrating a bit and mulling around enjoying the glow of a successful run, I was back on the shuttle bus to return to the World Cup Stadium. I popped into the eMart to grab a salad, and while waiting in long lines for the Sunday family grocery shopping, the people in front of me let me slip through first.

I popped on the Airport bus (per navigation directions) to return to town, surprising the driver, but after assuring him I knew where I was going, I was on my way back. I went directly to another restaurant recommended by the hotel staff to nourish myself on some sort of seaweed stew, a local specialty of Jeju Island. The walls of the restaurant were decorated with handwritten notes from guests from around the world, so I guess I wasn’t exactly discovering a hidden treasure.

Back in the hotel, I threw some jeans on over my exercise shorts and prepared to head to the other side of the island, but got caught in a conversation with a Danish woman who had spent a few weeks on Jeju just walking all the trails. She was planning to travel until the summer of 2020. Another person in a handful of days in the middle of a long trip. I don’t think I am being ambitious enough. I recommended that she try the ferry to China.

It was a long, but easy ride to the airport adjacent guesthouse where I would spend my last night. It was a private apartment converted to a guesthouse with at least of the six floors involved. The proprietor had earned a bachelor’s at Peking University in the 90s so we chatted in Chinese, and her father, who was around helping out took a liking to me after she told him I had done the half marathon. Despite being in his 70s, he still regularly runs marathons, though missed the signup cutoff for this one. I finally got a chance to shower, and spread my stuff out in the male dorm that I would have all to myself that night.

I headed out into the gentle afternoon to grab a coffee and sit still for a while. I was glad that I chose to stay an extra night and not try to bring all my stuff to the venue and then directly go to the ferry, but it was still stressful running around all day. Though only a couple of blocks away from the main “downtown” strip of Jeju City, the “Yongmun” neighborhood was like its own small town out in the boonies, so I ended up walking almost all the way back to the main strip to find a coffee shop. I got caught up in some phone calls that kept me in the coffee shop until nearly 7 when I was both hungry and desperately needed to pee. The shop didn’t have its own restroom and I trudged back to the neighborhood in the now blistering cold.

There were a cluster of chicken shops at the intersection near the guesthouse and I had my heart set on some celebratory chicken and beer. I placed an order for chicken, then went over to a supermarket to pick up a big bottle of beer, and at nearly eight I was back in the guesthouse sitting down to eat a real feast. Not only did I have a salad, but a whole fried chicken served with fried potatoes. I did my best, but couldn’t eat it all. I watched a couple episodes of “Curb Your Enthusiasm” while eating, and passed out by 10.

The alcohol woke me back up at 2 am, and I had trouble getting back to sleep.

GS Breakfast3000
Mediterranean Salad2980
Mumguk7000
Tmoney Reload10000
Marathon30000
(VISA: USD 27.54)
GuesthouseRMB 124
Coffee3500
Fried Chicken (Tongdalk)16000
Beer4500
Total: RMB 593
USD 88.35

Running Total: 17410 RMB (USD 2593.75)
Daily Average: 276.3 RMB (USD 41.17)

Day 61-62: Halla at me

I was up with my alarm predawn and stumbled out into the lounge to gulp down a few cups of coffee and do my Duolingo set before going out for the day. I knew I might not have the energy to study later, so I had to get it done while the caffeine worked its way into my bloodstream. Having learned my lesson at Dobongsan, I made sure to wear long sleeves and pack a down jacket just in case.

It was light outside by the time I headed to the bus stop, and I didn’t have to wait long before the 281 came rumbling along. It was a good 45 minutes of twisting, stomach-turning roads before I could topple off the bus at the Seopanak trailhead.

I made exceptionally good time up the mountain, stopping periodically for a swig of liquid and mouthful of calories, but ever mindful of the cutoff to ascend to the peak and the lunch awaiting me. The scenery was nice enough, though the leafless trees gave a rather desolate feeling. Signs pointed out every 100 meters in elevation gain, and I passed the tree line around 1,700 meters in elevation. Coming out of the ocean like that, it is an impressive mountain. It makes me want to go back Malaysia to properly summit Kinabalu.

The crater lake at the top was low of water but impressive nonetheless, and I spent more than half an hour plopped down on a rock munching away on a salad and snacks. A golden weasel (?) occasionally stuck its head out from under the rock to look at me or dart out to grab to nuts that a previous hiker had dropped. I spent some time chatting with a Korean-Canadian who was towards the end of a 2 year roundabout. Two years is a long time, but I guess when you get working holiday visas and can stop for a couple months to build up a nest egg, it makes sense.

I headed down the north trail (Gwaneumsa), which is both far more scenic (in terms of enjoying the mountain rather than the view from the mountain) and a harder trek. Vast stretches of the path were muddy from melted snow. Though slightly shorter, it felt longer because I was getting tired and anxious to get back. I eventually made it out of the forest to the parking lot. I had to transfer buses, but there was no difficulty returning to the town where my hotel is.

I vegged out a bit in the lounge, showered, noticed how I got a little burned despite touching up sun block multiple times, and vegetated a bit more before deciding to explore the market for some food options. Approaching early evening, the market was crowded, and the “street food” stalls were packed with queues. I want a sit down meal, so spent quite a bit of time looking in and around the market, eventually finding a smallish, oldish place with a decent amount of people eating inside. I had some sort of abalone soup with plenty of other seafood in it, though it basically tasted like a bean paste soup.

I was still a bit hungry later, and grabbed an ice cream from a 7-11. I was beat, and decided to watch something on my laptop. At one point, some new guys to the dormitory asked me if I wanted to drink with them, but I had to decline the offer.


Seafood Soup10000
Ice Cream1800
Total:11800
(71.4 RMB)
(USD 10.64)

On my last day before the marathon, I didn’t have any particular plans other than the wish to do a short 5km run to stay limber. That didn’t happen. I was pretty hungry when I woke up, so I decided to go out for some breakfast, arriving at a Dunkin Donuts just as they opened. I spent a couple hours there working on my computer.

I headed back to the hostel and borrowed a bike, but didn’t make it very far before realizing what a horrible idea it was. The roads are way too hilly and being out of biking shape, attempting to put 10 or 20 km on a bike would absolutely wreck me. I made it over one hill and followed a cutoff to a scenic attraction to make the best of the situation. It was beautiful, and I realized why a car would be necessary to really make the best of Jeju. There are scenic spots every couple miles along the coastline, and while one can walk lots of trails going through the scenic areas, you could cover a lot more ground in a day with a car.

I biked back to the hotel, ditched the bike, changed into sandals to be more comfortable and caught a bus to Jungmun Resort area where I knew there was a beach. I packed swimming trunks just in case. Firstly, Jungmun means “Chinese (writing)”, so I had to check out the area. Secondly, the resort area is really resort-ish. To get to the beach, I followed a “valley of flowers” and came out looking over the ocean. Past noon and hungry again, I stopped at the convenience store and had a simple meal at a table outside.

Afterwards, I followed the boardwalk, which was a bit more hiking than I intended, leading along the top of the cliff above the beach, before cutting down some stairs to reach the beach, which was only populated by a large group of student surfers. I walked the length of the beach and not particularly eager to move on, found a spot to lay out a blanket and take a nap. The wind started to pick up, and though the warmth of the sun was enough to compensate for its chill, the way it would sometimes pick up the sand convinced me my nap was enough. Regarding swimming, the beach was only open for swimming in July and August, and sticking my feet in the water convinced me it was for the best. However, as I was leaving I did notice some kids frolicking in the water.

Rather than head straight back, I decided to follow a trail for a bit. The trail led through and around some luxury resorts, a yachting harbor, and patches of green punctuated by thousands of flowers in full bloom. The wind continued to grow in strength, and by the time I decided to cut back to the main road to catch a bus, I was thoroughly chilled.

I tried the market again for food, heading directly to one restaurant that had caught my eye previously. Unfortunately, I hadn’t seen the “2 ppl and up” fine print, so it was out of the question. I went back to the hotel and asked the front desk if they had any recommendations. Upon their advice, I had some bbq pork veggies thing that was not only amazing, but the restaurant “tolerates” single portions. I wouldn’t have minded paying for a double portion of meat, but the veggies were basically bottomless. I felt like a total foreigner that meal both with the auntie taking over the cooking for me and me dropping food everywhere in my eagerness to eat.

I did my best to pack everything up so I wouldn’t have to worry about it in the morning. It was my last night in the hotel, and I would be at the marathon until checkout. The original plan was to take everything with me from the hotel (south side of island) to the venue (west side of island), run, take everything to the Jeju City (north side of island). Try to catch a ferry to the mainland, arrive late at night, find somewhere to sleep, then catch a bus the next morning. However, upon second thought and noticing how there was no time scheduled for eating or showering, I looked at flights, and decided to spend a night in a guesthouse near the airport and catch a flight in the morning. The irony is that a flight ticket is about the same as a ferry ticket.

So, I went to bed early to be ready for the race, which no longer seemed like the biggest concern among the swirl of other travel worries.


Dunkin Donuts6600
GS25 Lunch (ttoekbuki + drink)4100
Mango ice cream1800
Duruchiki7000
Total: 19500
(118 RMB)
(USD 17.58)

Running Total: 16817 RMB (USD 2505.5)
Daily Average: 271.2 RMB (USD 40.4)

Day 59-60: Jeju Jeju

Jeju Island is pretty nice, and despite my apprehensions about it being expensive, it is much the same as everywhere else in Korea, but with a more tropical laid back vibe.

For my third night in a row, I slept close to 10 hours, and was shocked to see my weight shooting up on the scale. I puttered about in the morning on Wednesday until about 11am, when I decided to go out for a long-ish walk. I looked on the map to see which direction I should head, and noticed a dashed line not far from my hotel and cutting through a nearby park, so I decided to follow that. It was one of what must be dozens of walking routes on the island, and it took me on quite the scavenger hunt.

The trail was pretty well marked by both colorful arrows and color-coded ribbons tied to trees. It did take me a while to realize that these roadside markings were for the trail and not some other symbols, and I did have a bit of confusion when there were multiple overlapping trails, but it wasn’t long before I didn’t even pull out the phone to check the map. The first leg was through a park, full of blooming trees. On the other side of the park, waiting at a crosswalk I noticed a restaurant that was too inviting to pass up. Specializing in steamed kimchi and kimchi stew, I ended up feasting for lunch when I was originally planning to fast. The restaurant was full of kitsch and old household goods, and my individual serving of kimchi stew was served on a burner because they brought by a packet of ramen to cook.

After lunch, I realized I was immediately in the countryside, as the trail headed down among orchards full of tangerine trees (or whatever the famous local citrus fruit is best called). All the farms had stone walls of igneous rock, and this first cluster of farms were in a deep depression that I later learned is the widest crater in Korea. On the other side of the crater, I passed a second temple, which could have doubled as a flower shop from the number of planters perfectly arranged. The trail cut across the highway and in and out of neighborhoods of lovely individual houses with neatly manicured gardens before heading up a long hill and ultimately a hike over a forested mountain. I was regretting not stopping at the last convenience store for water, but on the other side of the mountain, after a brief detour at what would have been a magnificent waterfall if it wasn’t the dry season, I was back in civilization and stopped to get an ice coffee and bottle of water.

There wasn’t much left to the trail before it deposited me at the Jeju World Cup Stadium. I popped into the eMart supermarket there to buy a bunch of salads and splurged on a big jar of mixed nuts, before hopping a bus back to the hostel where I hung out for the rest of the evening.

The lounge area is pretty popular among the guests at night, who bring by takeout sashimi and so much alcohol. They are all Korean and I keep to myself.


Kimchi Stew8500
Water and coffee (CU)2500
Emart Groceries21900
Total:32900
(199 RMB)
(29.65 USD)

I slept well again, but finally got my weight in check. Around 10, I knew I needed to get some exercise so laced up the running shoes and decided to follow a trail in the opposite direction. For some reason, I was under the impression that the coastline trail would be more suitable for running, but most of it was through natural scenery. After cutting through the heart of town and heading down hill, I found myself at a parking lot full of tour buses and people who were paying 2000 a pop to see some waterfall. I didn’t have any money on me so I continued on my merry way. The coastline is amazing, full of black volcanic rocks serving as the canvas for the natural art of erosion. Sections of the trail were along roadway where I could actually jog, but I mostly picked my way slowly over tree roots, ducking under branches, scrambling up and down stairs, etc. At about the sixth kilometer I reached a fishing harbor, and decided to make that the halfway point. I followed the road all the way back, which wasn’t much better, still excessively hilly.

I showered and a bowl of noodles for lunch, apparently “meat noodles” are a local specialty. After an espresso and a brief nap, I spent the afternoon in a coffee shop, and the evening back in the hostel lounge. On my way back I swung by a mart to pick up supplies for hiking the next day. I did some research on hiking the main mountain and knew I needed to properly prepare. There are cutoff times to ascend the mountain, so I would have to get an early start. I set an alarm and went to bed early.


Meat Noodles8000
Coffee 4000
Hiking snacks & water5140
Total: 17140
(103.7 RMB)
(USD 15.45)

Running Total: 16627.6 RMB (USD 2477.26)
Daily Average: 277 RMB (USD 41.29)

Day 56-58: Moving South

It was a lazy morning, packing up just before checkout time, getting brunch at the Flying Pan, and heading directly to the bus terminal in Gangnam to go to Gwanju. I tried to study on the luxury bus, but kept dozing off.

Arriving in Gwanju, I immediately tried to find a seat to get on the internet to find the specific address of my airbnb, but apparently the bus terminal is a popular place on a Sunday afternoon. It’s weird that this Airbnb is only two blocks from where I stayed the last time I was in Gwanju. I’ve barely done anything the town, but there is a familiarity to it. Remembering how bad the sidewalks were, I wanted to catch a bus over to the Airbnb, and after waiting 15 minutes, the bus just blew by the bus stop. So, I walked the 2km. It’s a nice apartment and an even nicer neighborhood with a good selection of supermarkets and restaurants.

I was briefly tempted to buy a bunch of junk food, breakfast, or stuff to cook in, but I went for an “Imperial” set meal at the Chinese restaurant, including noodles, dumplings, pork, and a coke. I’m still full from that meal.

Jajjyangmyeon for one

I didn’t even have time to watch a movie or anything in the evening before I just passed out from exhaustion.

Brunch for 263000
Bus ticket (premium)28100
Coca Cola2000
Airbnb59.93 (USD)
Chinese food18,000
Total:1075 RMB
(USD 159.85)

Despite going to bed early, I still slept in. And following the standard morning routine, didn’t get around to lacing up my running shoes until 10am. After a long run, of which the last 15 minutes weren’t logged because an incoming text message stopped the tracker, I quickly showered and went downstairs to eat some baekban. I had a new contender for best meal in Korea. Not only was it relatively cheap, the servers were aggressive to give me more food, not only refilling the side dishes, but giving me an entire new plate of bulgogi. It was also the first restaurant I went to where you had to take your shoes off.

The lotus root was the best

I was so stuffed I had to take a nap after that, but I dragged myself out of bed to hit a neighborhood coffee shop before 2pm where I could save a dollar on the coffee (morning special). I’m amazed by how dog-friendly Korea is, I’m constantly finding people bringing dogs with them into restaurants and cafes. This cafe had a dog locked up in the employee room, but it escaped once. A nearly perfect sphere of fur ran up to me, yipping and demanding I pet it. I couldn’t stick around the coffee shop too long because I needed to find an ATM. It appears I was down to my last 50,000 Won note, and that might not be enough to even get me to Jeju Island.

The quest for cash was onerous but ultimately successful. I must have tried quite a few ATMs, but there were 3 main problems. One, UnionPay isn’t widely available in the insular Korean banking system. Two, my Chinese bank card is chip only (no magnetic strip). Three, I don’t know if China has made any new regulations barring foreigners from withdrawing cash outside of China. After a number of failures, I got some cash. The ATM happened to be in a supermarket, so I picked up some snacks and a salad because I wasn’t sure I could eat another full meal that day.

Back in the apartment, I ended up devouring all of the food that night (despite hoping to save some of it for the next day), and going to bed early again.

Baekban6000
Coffee2900
Groceries6070
Total:14970
(90.6 RMB)
(USD 13.47)

I overslept again and needed to get out the door pretty early because there were a lot of unknown elements in the route to Jeju. I originally wanted to go via Mokpo, which is only an hour from Gwanju, but upon further review, I realized the ferries leave at 9am and 0030. Wando, two hours south of Gwanju, became my second choice with two ferries in the morning and one at 4pm. While I was half certain, I could just roll up to the ferry terminal, buy a ticket, and embark, I also remembered my troubles in Weihai where they cutoff ticket sales when they started embarkation, hours before the scheduled departure.

I walked the mile to Gwanju’s bus terminal, got a 10:00am ticket to Wando. Considering, how my weight had ticked up several days in a row, and I had been overeating a lot, I considered fasting the day. However, in the 20 minute wait before my bus, I decided to get a bagel from Dunkin Donuts.

I spent the whole two hours of the bus ride studying vocabulary. After two brief stops to change passengers along the way, we pulled into Wando’s bus terminal and I hoofed it the mile to the ferry terminal. It doesn’t matter where I go in Korea, but I always see a foreigner within about five minutes. While stopped outside a corner store, double checking the map, there was some white dude on a bicycle. Wando is a tiny little town, but okay.

When I finally got to the ferry terminal, the irony of the day arrived. I was an hour too early to buy a ticket, with sales only starting at 1:30. I drank some water and crashed on a seat with the free available WiFi. Then I remembered, I left my plug adapter in the Airbnb. I specifically reminded myself that morning to NOT forget it. I think I might be almost done with Korea. My SIM card done. My 8 dollar plug adapter lost.

I need to start getting used to seafood

After buying my ticket at 1:30 and confirming that boarding didn’t begin until 3:30, I had time to think about lunch. I headed across the street and had some bibimbap with seafood. I kept up the study, and with plenty of time to kill, also had an affogato from the chain cafe in the ferry station.

After the long wait, we got on the ferry. I was the only person dragging luggage, but that makes sense if most of the passengers had cars, the Silver Cloud being a car ferry first and foremost. My 3rd class ticket entitled me to a windowless room with a shoe locker and a 46 person capacity. Fortunately, there were only a handful of people, but it was annoying to have to take my shoes on and off. I didn’t mind laying on the ground though. The 2nd class cabins were roughly the same size with smaller capacity and windows. I wonder what 1st was like. Bored, I bought a snack from the onboard convenience store and explored the ship. I spent two hours in the aft of the ship, enjoying the sun and doing a bit of studying until I got too cold, then headed back to the room to nap. The 2.5 hour journey felt much longer than that.

Trying to escape the pollution

We arrived at dusk, the terminal was deserted with no schedules on display for me to plan my escape from Jeju. With a Wifi connection, I was able to check directions to my hostel, another 2 hours away. Luckily, I didn’t have to wait more than 2 minutes before a bus came barreling along, and some 16 stops later I disembarked in roughly central Jeju City. I walked to the next bus stop to wait for the cross island bus that would take me to the southside of the island where I had foolishly booked my accommodation. That hour long bus ride seemed to be 80% twisting mountain roads, but at least I had a seat for myself and my luggage.

Back in civilization, I got off at my stop and followed the navigation to my hotel/hostel. It’s a hotel, but there is a hostel attached to the first floor. Just one dorm room with barely anyone staying there. There is a huge lounge with pool table and foosball, free real coffee, and free bike rental. I’m surprised there aren’t any backpackers, but I guess there is a lot of competition.

Tired, but still vaguely aware that I should eat, I went out to wonder the streets, which were all marked as “something something famous food street”, and a huge market, which was closed/closing. I settled for a sundae gukbap (blood sausage soup with rice), which was again much more food than I really wanted, but it was good.

And sleep.

Bus to Wando18600
Blueberry bagel w/ cream cheese1600
Ferry Ticket29900
Lunch10000
Affogato5500
Onion ring chips1500
Sundae gukbap7000
Hostel (@ 5 nights)356 RMB
Total:804 RMB
(USD 119.5)

Running Total: 16324.9 RMB (USD 2426.7)
Daily Average: 281.5 RMB (USD 41.8)

Day 54-55: Weekend in Itaewon

I was pretty wrecked on Friday morning, and passed most of the morning in a haze. After packing up my stuff in advance of checkout, I wandered over to a fancy brunch place a friend had recommended to me. Afterwards, I just hung out on the couch for a few hours vegging out to Matt Groening’s latest animated show. I had two nights at a guesthouse in Itaewon booked for the weekend before I head out of Seoul for the last time (this trip). As checkin isn’t until 3, I was in no rush to move and it wasn’t a problem for me to hang around.

Actually, that reminds me of a funny story from the previous day. A guest had overstayed his booking, refusing to get out of bed or checkout, instead arguing that the hostel staff were wrong about what day he checked in and what day it was. He argued a long time, despite constantly saying “I don’t want to argue.” The hostel staff merely pointed at the computer records: you checked in on this day and paid for X number of days, you need to check out. His retort simply “you are wrong,” with no provision of documentary evidence other than repeated assertions. They really should have called the police, especially as he always wore a baseball cap and face mask, making it impossible to see his face. But, the owner came by and sorted out some solution where he agreed to pay another night without admitting he was wrong.

Anyways, the guesthouse in Itaewon was way better than the previous one I stayed in. After dropping my stuff off and paying a key (!) deposit (!), I had a Starbucks, which failed to do me any good, and a big bowl of pho, which helped a little. I was inclined to take a power nap in the room, but my roommate came in and chatted with me a bit. Unable to secure any plans for the night, I eventually decided to head over to a gastropub owned by a friend of a friend. Planning to study a little Korean over a beer, that didn’t quite happen as when I plopped down at the bar, a guy working on his laptop turned to me and was like “oh, it’s you.” We chatted for a bit, talking mostly about board games, for some reason, and I made a point to leave early to catch up on sleep.

Brunch18500
SP Guesthouse (@ 2 nights)166 RMB
Starbucks4300
Tet-tet Pho12000
2 craft beers @ California Kitchen19000
Total: 491.5 RMB
(USD 73.2)

With Saturday my last full day in Seoul, there was no way I wasn’t going to finally go hike some mountains. I didn’t get on the road until about 10am, and thought I had looked up a HomePlus supermarket right at the subway transfer point, but hadn’t looked close enough. It was an “express” version, which doesn’t sell the packaged salads (I have half a bottle of dressing, might as well eat healthy). Fortunately, there was one about 700 meters away, and the route took me through some very “traditional” markets selling used clothes and army surplus items. The next subway station over, where I got back on the road marked the area as a famous flea market in Seoul. It took so long to get to the mountain because every train I got on ended its run after a few stations and I had to wait for the next one.

Also, mid-morning, my prepaid data ran out. By my estimate, I had used maybe 800 megabytes, far less than the 1.5GB I had paid for. I guess I had gotten cheated. On the other hand, it was still a good deal (I paid less than 20 dollars for the equivalent of 120 dollars worth of data). I just wish I could figure out how to charge a bit more to last me this final week.

By the time I got to Dobongsan, the sky was gray and rain began drizzling down. It was sunny when I left, and I was so certain it would be warm, I only had a t-shirt on under my windbreaker. The weather didn’t seem to deter the swarms of hikers, so I carried on. After passing a hundred stalls selling all sorts of hiking gear, alcohol, and Korean snacks, I finally found the trail head and saw that it had stopped raining. However, within ten minutes of beginning the hike, it began snowing. As I climbed up, the snow got thicker and thicker, to the point where the main peak (a pitiful 726m) looked like I was in the Alps or Himalayas.

So sweaty

As soon as I started down the other side of the mountain, the sun broke through the clouds, but the wind picked up. I was certain I would get lost in the mountains because 95% of hikers return by the same route up, and the fresh snowfall made it hard to follow trail, which is also not very well marked with signs. There was a point where I caught up to a pair of Korean hikers, and kind of followed them for a while because they seemed to know the way. On the top of the third mountain over, I ran into a party of foreign college students posing for pictures. From there on, the trail was easy to follow, but it didn’t matter because they came down with me. We talked a bunch, and they stopped for photos a lot. It was annoying, and amplified by my lack of data coverage, because I was incommunicado and was supposed to meet someone for dinner.

I dozed on the train back into town and missed my stop because I needed to bid a farewell to the exchange students. I rushed, rushed, rushed back to the hostel, to shower, change, and charge, but it wasn’t necessary. That friend didn’t even reply to me until 7pm, suggesting a dinner at 8pm. I was so freaky hangry, but endured. With the sun down, it was as cold as on the mountain top. I walked the 20 minutes to the appointed restaurant, and spent close to 20 minutes waiting out in the cold. Needless to say, it was a strained dinner, but we cleared the air over coffee afterwards.

Back in the hostel, I was hydrating and thinking about skipping the Saturday night party scene, but got called out to meet another friend. Its so weird how crowded that one bar street gets, but the weirdest bit is the military police patrolling it. With an Army base a stone’s throw away and the propensity of trouble to follow alcohol, I get it. Nonetheless, it makes me uncomfortable. I guess it’s lucky I don’t look like a soldier. One of the guys I met on the hike had spent a couple hours in a (Korean) police station the previous night.

I went to a club — no cover charge, my driver’s license was accepted without question, and the hand stamp washed away easily — to rendezvous with my friend. So much for taking a night off of alcohol.

Salad and snack (eMart)5180
Tmoney top up11000
Coffee for 210,000
Long Island Ice Tea10,000
Beers and Fries27,000
Total: 63180
(382.2 RMB)
(USD 56.93)

Running Total: 14355.3 RMB (USD 2138.25)
Daily Average: 261 RMB (USD 38.88)

Day 52-53: One Flew Over the Birdsnest

I was super hungry in the morning and decided to track down the gukbap place I had gone to with S & Y after the feed the homeless service activity over a month ago. It was even better than I remembered. I grabbed a Mega Coffee on the way back so I wouldn’t have to waste so much time making my own coffee.

I finally got around to nailing down my schedule for the remaining days in Korea. The (half) marathon is only about 10 days away, and I went ahead and booked places to stay.

I was sitting downstairs studying with mild chitchat, but felt an overwhelming sleepiness, so I decided to mix it up by taking my nap first and eat lunch second. I had the last packet of salad for lunch and hung out downstairs for a bit–sucked into two episodes of “Modern Family”–before heading to another new (to me) cafe.

The coffee was good, but I was dealing against the Scylla and Charybdis of my own lack of energy and distractions through the phone. It’s hard to muster my concentration in the first place, its even harder to find the flow after hanging up the phone. Jazz and rain don’t seem to do the trick any more.

I didn’t do much else that day. After hanging out in the hostel for a bit, I headed out into the drizzle to find some food. I wanted some spicy tteokbokki or Japanese ramen, but ended up popping into a North Korean cold noodle place. It was nice, and gave me the boost of energy to do a bit more studying in the evening. If was a quiet evening and I didn’t have any temptation to drink.


I slept well and was up fairly early in the morning. I only had one coffee and did the minimal studying necessary before I decided my time would be better spent taking advantage of the clean air. It was still somewhat wet and gray, but I had a good run. One shower later, I had another coffee and kept studying in the living room while a Canadian guy was watching “Vikings.” We had talked about going around the corner to a homemade Japanese ramen place the previous day, and as we were both hungry, we headed over at 11am only to find that they didn’t open until 11:30. We went back to the hostel to wait it out, but the wait was worth it.

I took a short nap before heading over to a nearby neighborhood to explore a bit and find somewhere nice to spend an afternoon. I picked a cafe that looked pretty good, but I was the only person there and it got cold after a while. It was also hard to focus on work, so I gave up mid afternoon and went back to the cozy hostel.

There had been talk about a barbecue at the hostel on Wednesday night, and having been cancelled on account of the rain, I was under the impression of it being postponed to Thursday. That wasn’t to be the case, but I had the idea of barbecue fixated in my mind and kept talking it up around the hostel hoping to stir up some interest. While talking, a Serbian fellow who was in Seoul on a visa run for China asked about book stores in the area. As he wasn’t comfortable about getting lost, I agreed to accompany him. We headed over directly, and I got a chance to really look through a bunch of Korean textbooks, paying particular attention to the way they presented Hangul. The first one confirmed my intuitions about the need for a better system, the second gave me some good ideas on sequencing, but the third was a book solely dedicated introducing the writing system, basically the Hangul museum distilled into a textbook/workbook. I’m going to have to meditate on whether the fool’s errand of writing my own introductory textbook is worth it.

After about an hour in the bookstore, it was getting into the evening and I was still antsy about getting together a group for dinner or something. By the time we got back it was apparent that I missed whatever window was available, so I headed back out to see about feeding myself, dropping a bunch of money at a banchan truck and picking up a couple bottles of soju. I enjoyed my dinner in the hostel living room as people came in and out and hung around. There was still much chatter among the guests about going out to party that night, and I was on board for whatever.

However, I was also perfectly content to entertain myself, and I put in some earbuds and cranked the volume on music for quite a while, even as I was marching along the streets with five other people off to some bar or club. At some point, there was a huddle and the group split up because someone had some bad blood with me, and I ended up a convenience store with the two French guys drinking more even though I really would have preferred to just go to bed early at that point. There was a Korean man also drinking at the convenience store and we all hung out together. After a polite enough time, I made my farewells and headed back to the hostel, which despite being well past midnight, still had plenty of people around, meaning I was up for another hour or two talking. Eventually, I was able to get myself under control and go to sleep.

I had seriously wanted to go to be around 11 so I could wake up early for another run, but that social bug seized me and just wouldn’t let go. I don’t know if it was the most volume of alcohol I’ve had in a while, but I was the drunkest, completely transforming into the kind of guy who talks to giant invisible rabbits and quotes liberally from the Sermon on the Mount.


Gukbap7000
Mega Coffee Americano1500
Coffee and Scone8000
Cold noodles8000
Subtotal: 24,500
Ramen11000
Hand pour coffee5500
Banchan10000
Soju3850
Garlic Bread loaf3900
Sports Drinks (2+1)4000
Subtotal:38,250
Total: 62,750
(379.6 RMB)
(USD 56.55)

Running Total: 13481.6 RMB (USD 2008.4)
Daily Average: 254.4 RMB (USD 37.9)

Day 50-51: Birdsnest Revisted

In order to ensure I’d have enough time to meet up with the Seoul-based friends who convinced to return to the capital, I needed more than a weekend. However, given the budget-busting Airbnbs, I made accommodations to return to the ole’ Hongdae stomping ground where I could attempt to live cheaply for a few days. After a three week absence, I must say I was also curious to check-in on the drama.

I took my time packing up my belongings in the Airbnb Monday morning, and hopped on a bus to get to Yeonnam-dong. When I entered the hostel, I was surprised not to be greeted by any familiar faces. Being too early for check-in, I dropped my bags and went to an Indian restaurant about three doors down from the hostel. I had always meant to try its lunch special. It wasn’t worth the return.

I swung back through the hostel to grab my backpack and spent a couple hours in the wonderfully fragrant bakery/cafe. At 3 pm, I returned to the hostel to check in and change for a run. The living was fuller at the time, and with many recognizable faces. One person asked in a somewhat accusatory tone “Why did you come back?” I suppose I could have retorted: “Why haven’t you left?” but I was otherwise welcomed like I had never left. Nevertheless, I hold that it is better to leave a place and return then to always stay there. You need the perspective of seeing other places for comparison, and there is a frisson to returning to a familiar location.

I took a longish run, stopping at 9.5 km to buy groceries, and carefully jogging the 3.5 km return trip to avoid overly tossing the 500 won marked down salad packs. After a quick shower and change, I wolfed down a salad before taking out the bottle of makkoli and packet of prawn crackers I also bought as a supplement. I spent the evening in the living room hanging out with guests and volunteers.

One of the volunteers needed to go to Hong Kong on a visa run, and had been having trouble booking a plane ticket, so I did that for him through my Chinese bank in exchange for cash, which means I might have just enough to squeak through.

Apparently in the interim, someone had punched in an Netflix account to the set-top box, so my harddrives are superfluous. On the other hand, the account isn’t age verified, so a lot of content is blocked. Even shows like “The Good Place” which is as wholesome as cheese. What the forks? Looking for entertainment options, I recommended we watch “The Unbreakable Kimmy Schmidt” and we ended up finishing the first season that night.

A group of partiers went out drinking and I wasn’t even tempted to join them, but that doesn’t mean I didn’t drink too much. By the time I finished my bottle of makkoli, a Norwegen girl came in with a 1.7L bottle of beer. When she went on the second beer run, I handed her some cash. Despite the best intentions to not drink too much, too late, I personally accompanied her on the third beer run. (And I suddenly recall that I don’t know exactly how much that last bottle of beer cost).

I went upstairs to use the bathroom once and came down with a box of fried chicken and tater tots.

It was past one when the partiers returned and within minutes there were noise complaints. After getting chewed out, I took the initiative as a party pooper, finished my glass, hit the lights, and went to bed.

Drama Update: Other than a new volunteer, there wasn’t a major shift in the composition of the hostel workforce. One long term resident had to be kicked out including with the involvement of the police for fighting. Finally, I received confirmation that I wasn’t insane with the insomnia of my final few nights in the hostel, as I overheard one volunteer try to talk reason with the perpetual violator. Chatting with her later, she asked if I noticed anything missing. The guitars are gone.


I was a bit hungover in the morning, which was spent studying Korean and drinking coffee with peace and quiet. I had an early lunch of salad and green curry (with free rice), and tried to take a nap. Mid-nap, I got caught up in a conversation in social media and wasn’t able to get out the door to a coffee shop until nearly 3 pm. Where does all the time go?

Under recommendation, I went to a Vietnamese coffee shop for an authentic ca phe sua. It was a cool little cafe, but not really suitable for working, so after a halfhearted attempt to be productive, I gave up and headed back to the hostel. I hung around the entrance for about half an hour shooting the shit with a couple of the guests. There are quite a few interesting and friendly people, but it is magical the affect this hostel has on people, sucking them into its gravitational field, resulting in very little tourism.

At six, I hopped on the subway to go to Gangnam to meet someone for dinner. We had fried chicken and beer at a Craft Hans which was nothing like the establishment of the same name I had patronized in Itaewon. One order of chicken was more than enough for the two of us and I even left food uneaten. She paid, which was only fair, as she had blown me off on previous attempts to get together. Despite a few extra weeks of studying Korean, the conversation was rather strained Konglish with reliance on Papago for translation. That was disappointing. She offered to drive me home, but I declined the offer.


Indian Lunch Special9000
Coffee and Choco Croissant5600
Home Plus groceries9350
Beer5600 (?)
Hostel (4 nights)203 RMB
Vietnamese Coffee5500
Total: 381 RMB
(USD 57)

Running Total:
13102 RMB
(USD 1957)
Daily Average:
256.9 RMB
(USD 38.37)

Day 47-49: Back to Seoul

One of the cardinal rules for budget travel is to plan out your itinerary to minimize backtracking because the cost of transportation from place to place can make a real dent in the budget. On the other hand, when one is hanging out in a small country for more than a month, one sometimes finds oneself shuttling back and forth. And so, Friday morning found me packing up and heading to the Busan train station to journey back to Seoul for a week. I left Seoul because I was lonely and bored and tired of the pollution, but there are compelling reasons to return. At the same time, there are reasons to get back to Busan as soon as possible.

Anyways, at the Busan train station, I had to wait in line to buy a ticket from the counter because the handful of self-service machines were credit card only. Despite the wait, I had basically perfect timing to hop onto the “cheap” train, though I suppose I should actually try the KTX express train some time. It doesn’t seem worth paying double the price to save 2 hours, though. I grabbed a coffee and a donut from Krispy Kreme before settling into my seat on the train. I napped, listened to podcasts, and studied Korean on the ride, which passed quickly.

The sun was setting behind an overcast sky as the train pulled into Seoul. The cold, drizzling rain made me question myself as I found my way to a bus stop to get the the Airbnb I booked. I found the address (though I wish the map had told me the “short cut” was over a hill when I could have walked around) and let myself in through the pass code. At this point, I feel safe in generalizing that no one in Korea uses keys. Every apartment has a smart lock. I spent the weekend in an apartment hosted by a young Korean couple with a passion for surfing. They were still at work when I arrived around 6 and I vegged out for a while until my growling stomach forced me to seek food.

I went to a weird tonkatsu restaurant. It was on the second floor and painted in primary colors. A number of kids were running around while their moms were collecting empty beer glasses. It seemed like both a bar, offering reasonably priced draft beer and a kids restaurant at the same time. I had a cheese tonkatsu, which tasted like a giant mozzarella stick, though on close inspection there was pork inside. When I returned to the apartment, my hosts were back home, eating pizza and watching Big Bang Theory. We briefly said hello, but it wasn’t a situation to hang out together. I watch half of Loving Vincent and passed out early

Train ticket28600 W
Krispy Kreme special4000 W
Cheese tonkatsu + beer11500 W
Airbnb87.66 USD

My hosts were out the door before I got up in the morning. I made a coffee, but didn’t want to hang around the apartment too much so I located a McDonald’s on the map and took a walk. I passed through a park — actually the same railroad park from the Hongdae area (I wonder how far it stretches) — and generally got an impression of the neighborhood between two stops of the subway. I hung out in the McDonald’s until about 11 and popped by a eMart Supermarket to pick up a salad for lunch.

I took a nap and went to a coffee shop to work for a couple hours. The coffee was a bit expensive, but it was a really cool cafe/photo gallery. I would have liked to stay longer but it was the high afternoon and the AQI had dropped to an acceptable level for exercise. There is a stadium and park in the area, so I jogged over there and did laps in the stadium while a soccer game was underway. I just assumed it was open to the public, but when the game was over and all the players were leaving, I left too because I would have been the only person left in the stadium. I headed into the park afterwards, but it wasn’t so good for jogging because it was basically just a big hill. However, there was a massive collection of exercise equipment on top of the hill, including free weights. I ended the run and lifted weights for about half an hour.

On the way back to the apartment, I wanted to grab a sports drink and snack, but time was tight. I had an appointment at 7pm to meet my high school classmate who I see every time I visit Korea (and had blown me off when I was in Seoul a few weeks ago). We went to a restaurant that was more like a Korean pub in the sense that the food was mediocre and mainly served to accompany the alcohol. Her friend who owned the place kept commenting on how handsome I was, which I guess might have been weird, but in all modesty, I’m used to that from China. We went through a couple bottles of Makgeolli, a Korean rice wine, though it might be better to think of it as a rice beer, and a couple dishes including fried tofu (supposed to be “pancake” style but, whatever), Korean sausage stir-fried with veggies, and some cold noodles.

We had a great talk, discussing work, ethics, and life philosophy with barely any reminiscing about El Paso. That’s really good. On three visits over four years, we’ve gotten to know each other quite well, graduating from relying on common history for small talk to freely shooting the breeze.

My friend picked up the tab for dinner on condition that I buy the cocktails at the bar. Southside Bar, opened by a couple Texans, was inconspicuous on the fourth floor of some random building along the main street. The place was full of expats enjoying their Saturday night. I didn’t even look at the food menu, but I saw some nice looking tacos and heard the wings are good. The cocktails were crazy expensive, but properly done with two full pages in the menu for their original creations.

At some point, my friend’s boyfriend joined us and we joined the table where his best friend and business partner was drinking with his fiancee and its getting hard to describe the situation without names. In any case, it was a lot fun and we didn’t leave until 2am. Fortunately, though my airbnb isn’t in Itaewon, it is close enough to walk home, which helped me sober up enough that I wouldn’t wake up my hosts when I stumble in.

McDonald’s Deluxe Breakfast5800
Salad3980
Latte5200
Cocktails76000

I definitely had a bit of a hangover in the morning and lounged around until around 11am, when I needed to get some food in me. I went up and down the street looking for some hearty Korean fare, eventually stopping at a place specializing in “Hangover Soup.” It wasn’t my intention, but the place was packed, so it had to be good. And, seriously, when I say specializing, I mean that was the only thing on the menu. After waiting a few minutes for a table, the hostess sat me and another guy together. Recalling the soup as I write this, I could go for it again.

Afterwards, I hopped straight on the subway to head to the World Cup Stadium for what is now my Sunday in Seoul routine of sauna and swimming. I had good soak in the hot tubs and half-napped in the common room. While lounging around, someone I had matched with on Tinder that morning asked if I wanted to grab lunch. Since I had already had lunch and hadn’t gotten to my swim yet, I proposed dinner instead. So much for grabbing a salad at the Home Plus (which surprised me by being open on Sunday when it had previously been closed). Why is it suddenly so easy to be all social and meeting people when it was so hard last month?

The pool was pretty crowded with a bunch of kids fooling and some people getting private swim lessons. A kid moving crosswise in the middle of the pool ran into me on one lap. Pretty much all the lanes had several people hanging out on one end or the other and I was surprised by the size of some of the swimmers. I don’t want to be fat-shaming or anything, but I’m kind of used to small skinny people in the pools, which makes it easy to share with 4-5 people in a lane. Anyways, I set a new personal best record, doing 40 laps or 2000 meters.

I wanted to hang out and study Korean for an hour before going to my date later, but I was really wiped by the exercise. So, when my date texted to ask me to hurry up, I got dressed and hopped on the subway to go all the way over to the Coex Mall in Gangnam. It was, let’s say, an interesting encounter, where I was more like a girlfriend or therapist helping her analyze/interpret a situation. TMI. We split a half BBQ chicken, half original New York cheese pizza. I’ve been craving pizza, so that hit the spot.

I finally spent all the T-Money on my transportation card, and had to top it up. So, that 50 bucks lasted about 6 weeks. Not too bad.

I caught a bus back to my airbnb so I got to enjoy some night scenery from the windows. My hosts were sitting at the table drinking wine and listening to old Korean music when I got back and I joined them. We chatted for a couple hours before going to bed. They are good people.

Hangover Soup7000
Spoland10000
Pocari Sweat2000
Tmoney10000
Pizza16000
Soju1550

It was an expensive weekend. Not just traveling back on the train, but staying in an apartment (versus a hostel) and dropping big bucks socially. Maybe it is better to be bored and lonely. Ha!

Total:1687.5 RMB
251 USD

Running Total: 12721 RMB (USD 1894)
Daily Average: 259.6 RMB (USD 38.65)